Hollow chains made of gold and silver are becoming increasingly popular among people with different financial capabilities. The main reason for the growing interest in these products is the significant increase in the cost of gold products, so the desire of consumers to buy budget, but spectacular jewelry is understandable. If previously manufacturers produced hollow chains only large in diameter - from one millimeter or more, now there are exquisite models of only 0.3–0.5 millimeters in diameter.
- 30 Jewelry Chain Weaves: A Large Illustrated Guide
How to distinguish a hollow chain from a full one
The masterly craftsmanship of jewelers provides chains with an honorable place among jewelry. Universal and functional products are complemented by body icons, crosses, original pendants or act as an independent accessory. Jewelry creators offer a large number of varieties of chains to choose from: long and short, narrow and wide, decorative and classic, women's and men's. Different types of weaving and metal will allow you to choose a thing that suits its purpose and aesthetic requirements.
Technological features of weaving
There are several weaving methods that allow you to create unique jewelry:
- Machine knitting is performed on modern equipment and is based on process automation. The latest technology makes it possible to weave jewelry whose links are less than a millimeter thick.
- Handwork is used in the manufacture of types of weaving that cannot be done on a machine. The minimum weight of handmade chains is from 6 grams. The impeccable quality of workmanship is determined by the degree of professionalism of the chain jeweler. The painstaking weaving of jewelry chains consists of winding gold or silver wire around a workpiece and cutting it into rings of the same size. The links are compressed using pliers. The connector of each link is soldered. Labor-intensive work is highly valued.
- The stamped chain is assembled from blanks. The links are threaded into one another without soldering. The finished decoration may become deformed, twisted and less durable.
Machine or hand knitting chains
Machine knitting technology is good for both the thinnest and lightest chains and popular full-weight weaves. Moreover, most light chains that are knitted on a loom cannot be made by hand due to their very small size or complex assembly.
With the help of machinery, it is possible to produce a full-fledged product of 1 gram or less, and the smallest link size in our factory, for example, will be 1.4 mm. Once the decoration is woven, it is sent to an oven heated to 815 degrees to join the ends of the links. This is how we get perfectly smooth products with identical elements.
Our customers often ask about the strength of weaves. So, in terms of strength, machine and hand knitting are not inferior to each other. Strength often depends on the thickness of the wire, the quality of soldering of the links and, of course, the careful wearing of the jewelry affects it.
Chain tying machine creates 600 links in 1 minute
Hand weaving allows you to make a really strong chain that will be good for everyday wear and large pendants. In addition, in this way you can realize any idea - come up with a fancy weave for one single order, combine it with cast elements. The manual method of weaving chains requires a lot of time and the professionalism of a specialist. See for yourself - on average, the process, from working with wire to obtaining the finished product, goes through 13-14 stages.
The difference between full and hollow chains
- When choosing a chain, you will pay attention to the difference in weight of jewelry of the same length and volume. Regardless of what type of weaving is used, the chains can be: Hollow - these are chains that combine lightness and volume. They are made of wire that is hollow inside and have a low weight and differ in external thickness. Complex decorative types of weaving provide them with solidity, and the affordable price explains their popularity.
- Full-weight chains, while visually similar, are heavier than hollow ones, and the cost is higher. If you have a desire to have jewelry that is resistant to deformation, comfortable to wear and durable, a full-weight chain will answer all your needs.
- Snakes are distinguished by their round cross-section, and got their name due to their resemblance to plastic snakes, from the English snake - snake. The elements of unusual twisting are connected in series, and the product is very durable.
Chains: hollow or solid, which one to choose?
Let's talk about choosing gold chains and bracelets. There are three types of chain production: hollow chains, full-weight machine chains and hand-woven chains.
Hollow chain - a chain connected from hollow tubes. The wire is made with a core (a non-precious material in the middle), which is then chemically etched away, leaving a void in the middle of the wire. Hollow chains look much thicker than full chains of the same weight, but they must be handled with care. It is advisable to wear them only when going out. You cannot sleep, play sports, etc. in hollow chains. It is also not advisable to hang pendants on hollow chains. Hollow chains are often brought to us for repair, the reasons for the break: I washed them with a washcloth in the bathhouse, they got caught on a tree (?!), a dog/child broke them, they hung a 7 gram cross on the gram chain, and, my favorite: “it broke itself.” A hollow chain is almost impossible to repair.
What types of gold chains are there?
A chain can be made in different ways and from different golds. There are weaves that are made by hand, and there are those that are made by machine. Chains can also be full-weight or hollow.
How to choose a gold chain?
I’ll tell you what they are like and which one I would choose for myself, my wife or children.
What is the fineness of gold in the chain?
The fineness of gold indicates the amount of pure gold in the alloy. The most common is 585 gold, it contains at least 58.5% pure gold, the rest is impurities.
In addition to the purity, gold may differ in color. 585 standard can be red, lemon and white. The value of gold does not depend on color. White gold is no more expensive than red or lemon.
In order for a gold chain to be more accessible and attractive to the buyer, it can be made from 375-karat alloy, in which the content of pure gold is less than in the 585-karat alloy. In this way, the manufacturer can reduce the cost of the product.
Which gold chain is better to choose?
You need to choose either a beautiful or durable gold chain. If it combines both properties, it will be very expensive. Why?
A strong chain will weigh a lot. Remember your grandmother’s and grandfather’s chains, they weighed from 10 grams and looked very modest.
If you choose a chain that weighs 10 grams but looks like 50 grams, it simply cannot be strong.
But let's look specifically. Which chain would I choose for a gift:
To a man
For myself, I would choose a full-weight chain of classic weaving weighing from 20 grams. A full-length kaiser or anchor weave would suit me just fine.
Such a chain today costs about 60,000 - 100,000 rubles.
To a woman
For my wife, I would choose a full-length lava chain. It would weigh 5-8 grams, would be thin, but would wear quite well and for a long time.
If you turn off your brain and choose with your heart, of course you want to choose a hollow chain of interesting weaving. The same hollow Kaiser will look much brighter than the 20 gram full-weight version that we chose for the man.
But keep in mind that a hollow chain will begin to lose its shape after one to two years and will cause discomfort if worn constantly.
A gold chain weighing 8 grams will cost 25,000 - 40,000 rubles today.
Types of chain weaving
When choosing jewelry, the main criterion is the weaving of chains made of gold and silver. There are only three basic weaving technologies: anchor, shell and bismarck. All the rest are fantasy. The artistic configurations of each are distinguished by simple or intricate knitting of links and have given life to many variations:
- Anchor knitting attracts with its uncomplicated simplicity. Externally, the weaving of the links resembles an anchor chain. The classic version assumes an oval shape of the links. If the links are round, then this is “Rollo” or “Chopard”, after the name of the fashion house Chopard, which ensured the popularity of the original type of knitting. The technology of weaving with links of two rings is called “Double Anchor”.
- Armor weaving impresses with the decorative shine of its polished edges. It is distinguished by chain links that are knitted not perpendicularly, but in a single plane. The name is explained by its resemblance to a chain mail shell. There are single, double and triple weaving - it all depends on the number of rings being fastened. Knitting with diamond-shaped elements is called “Rhombus”. The most elegant armor weaving “Nonna”. The double-sided diamond cut gives it a spectacular shine.
- “Bismarck” is one of the most complex weavings and is most often accompanied by manual work. Knitting is formed by elements consisting of several rings. Double, triple or quadruple weave technology guarantees increased strength.
- Fantasy weaving combines different types of designs in different proportions. Design changes instantly respond to new jewelry trends.
Which weave to choose?
Of course, first of all it is a matter of taste. However, some types of chains are traditionally classified as women's, men's or universal. Thus, the massive and solid “Bismarck” is most often preferred by representatives of the stronger sex, and the graceful “Nonna”, “Singapore”, “Rose”, “Love” and a number of other varieties are considered truly feminine. A typical unisex weaving option is “Anchor”.
For children, the most optimal are densely knitted chains, for example, “Snake”, as well as jewelry cords made of rubber or leather.
Most popular chains
This weaving was invented for heavy chains weighing more than 100 grams, but it turned out to be too beautiful and practical to remain aside. So this method began to be used for the production of thin light chains. It can be made either manually or using machinery. By the way, Bismarck weaving is especially popular in Russia.
This weaving is often called “Byzantine” and “Royal” - and all options are correct. The ornate interweaving of rings makes it one of the most beautiful and feminine weaves. Of course, this also affects the strength - such a chain will withstand heavy pendants.
Fox tail chain weaving is often equated to Byzantine chain weaving. But even at first glance, the difference is striking. “Fox tail” - weaving is more smooth and dense. Its links fit into a strong chain like a puzzle. A thick chain of this type of weaving cannot be broken by hand.
You can guess its name from the appearance of the chain. Weaving differs sharply from others in the fastening of the links - in a “rope” they are tightly connected to each other and twisted with a rope. This feature makes the chain strong and allows you to wear heavy pendants and crosses. At the same time, it turns out to be so self-sufficient and elegant that it can be worn without additional pendants.
The exceptionally feminine Rose or Courage weave is impressive. Its details in the form of buds are made not of simple links, but of spiral ones. Due to this design, the chain looks voluminous and airy, but in fact has good strength.
“Caprice” or “Python” is another type of durable weaving. Most often it is done manually. It is one of the few chains that can be worn independently without additional accessories. Beautiful, laconic, airy.
Weaving "Nonna" is very popular among female buyers. It looks openwork thanks to the connection of lines and harmoniously combines with various pendants. Due to its design, it can be worn as a stand-alone piece of jewelry. Remember that it all depends on the diameter and thickness of the chain wire. This weaving often refers to machine knitting; less often, craftsmen assemble the links by hand. Reliable, beautiful, affordable - despite the fact that weaving is a classic on the shelves of jewelers, the Nonna chain is still relevant to this day.
Diamond, double or triple diamond - these types of chains are popular among both men and women. Based on the name of the weave, the design is based on a diamond shape. Several types of weaving allow you to make the chain both laconic and more massive and voluminous. It is made both manually and by machine, and therefore is available to a wide range of buyers.
A classic and universal version of weaving - it does not stand out as pretentious, suitable for both men and women. The rounded elongated links are connected in series and perpendicular to each other. It was invented back in Ancient Egypt, and it became the basis for dozens of other types of weaving. It is performed both manually and using automated equipment.
Simple and straightforward weaving with perfectly round links. It can also be found under the names “Belzer” and “Chopard”. The latter stuck with him because of Chopard’s love for this weave - the brand actively used it for many years and made it its calling card.
“Snake” is ideal for everyday wear - laconic, stylish, versatile and as strong as a lace. But such a chain must be worn especially carefully and removed at night. With physical impact, creases form on it.
Singapore weave has a complex spiral structure. It gives the chain a graceful shine as it moves. Pairs with almost any style and jewelry.
Gurmet weaving is universal and elegant at the same time. It consists of small links that form an elegant chain. “Gurmet” is good not only on the outside, but also on the inside - such a chain does not twist and serves faithfully for a long time.
The “Chris Cross” chain is a fancy weave, complex and extraordinary in shape, but in every sense a brilliant know-how among different types of chains. It looks impressive, stylish, bright, like a rich, self-sufficient necklace. It appeared on the shelves of jewelry stores relatively recently, but has confidently taken its place among the popular models.
Combination of chain with bracelet and pendant
Many of us wear a chain all the time, so we don’t perceive it as decoration. However, we should not forget that this is an accessory that, like any piece of jewelry, requires special combination rules.
The pendant should match the chain in size, weight (about twice as light) and metal color. Thus, a large pendant or cross on a thin chain will look ridiculous, and at the same time, a pendant that is too small will not fit on a massive item.
Be sure to check that the ear of the pendant fits freely through the lock.
In addition to ordinary chains, there are also chain bracelets that are often worn by both women and men. Ideally, the types of weaving of both products should match, but this does not happen often - jewelry can be given as a gift, purchased in different places, or several years apart. Therefore, it is enough that the bracelet and chain match each other in thickness and metal. For example, the “Nonna” chain will look good with a “Rhombus” or “Love” weave bracelet, and the “Bismarck” chain will look good with a wide “Armor” knit.
In any case, if you doubt the compatibility of two decorations, it is better to leave one. As the incomparable Coco Chanel said, “When choosing accessories, take off the last thing you put on.”
Types of chain locks
If you have decided to choose a chain, you should pay attention to the clasp. There are several requirements for the lock:
- Reliability. He is obliged to guarantee the safety of the product.
- Convenience. Fastening and unfastening the chain yourself should be comfortable.
- Aesthetics. The design and appearance of the castle should not interfere with the artistic perception of the decoration.
The type of fastener depends on the weight of the product and its weaving; the most common are classic options:
- The carabiner reliably protects the connecting ring from unwanted falling out of the structure. The design can be in the shape of a rectangle or a drop. Perfectly suits both massive chains and elegant chains.
- A spring lock is more suitable for thin chains. The mechanism consists of a miniature ring with a spring mechanism inside.
In addition to the most common fasteners, chains use: butterfly fasteners, chain and screw locks, figure eights, crutch fasteners and boxes.
How to determine whether a chain is made of gold or not?
12 ways to check gold for authenticity
- Look at the sample Factory products always have a standard stamp with a sample. ...
- Smell the item Gold items should not have any odor. ...
- Take a closer look at the joints...
- Apply a magnet...
- Check with vinegar...
- Drop some iodine...
- Draw with a lapis pencil...
- Look at the gold in the sun and in the shade
Aug 9 2021
Hollow and solid chains
If you take a hollow chain in one hand and a full-weight one in the other, you will immediately understand the difference - the first, for all its volume, will be much lighter than the second. If you look at a hollow chain in cross-section, it will look like a tube because it has voids in the middle. The full weight chain is completely cast from metal.
A hollow chain will look more massive and larger than a full-weight one, and its price will be lower. However, such a product is easier to bend or deform, so it requires careful care - take it off at night, do not wear it during sports activities, and protect it in every possible way from physical impact.
The full weight chain is durable. It will not bend, and will withstand even heavy pendants with dignity (but: here you need to take into account the weight ratio of the chain and pendant). However, due to the weight, you will have to pay more for such a product.
How to choose a chain?
Consider the age and appearance of the person who will wear the jewelry. So, for a young girl, a thin chain with a light pendant is appropriate. An older lady will appreciate a massive piece that can be attached to a larger pendant. Well, choose the weave based on your preferences: for example, classic is appropriate with business, casual, and evening wear. Fantasy weaving is an idea for the evening. Wear your jewelry carefully and it will last you for decades.
Chain length
The length of jewelry chains varies between 40 cm and 70 cm. An important criterion is decisive when choosing jewelry and involves several options:
- from 40 cm and above - the decoration gently bends around the neck;
- from 50 cm and above - the product lies just below the base of the neck;
- from 60 cm and above - the chain is at the level of the neckline;
- about 70 cm - the chain touches chest level.
Women prefer products up to 50 cm in length, men prefer those that are longer. There is no general rule. Each specific case is dictated by personal preferences and is considered correct.
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