History of the appearance and name of Bismarck weaving
Weaving appeared less than a century ago in Italy and initially spread under the name “garibaldi.” Many jewelry makers tried to take credit for it, but who exactly invented it remains unknown.
Among jewelers, there is a legend about a popular craftsman who was a fan of the first Kaiser of Germany, Otto von Bismarck, admiring his strong character, unbreakable political ties and steadfastness in matters of principle, he created such an original, durable weaving.
Quickly becoming recognizable in different countries, the weave was transformed and received many different names: Bismarck, Kaiser, Springel, Cardinal and Arabic. In the post-Soviet space, weaving is most often called Bismarck.
Initially, Bismarck weaving chains were massive and weighed one hundred grams or more. After perestroika, weaving was very popular among wealthy people; few could afford such decoration, which only emphasized the high status of the owner. Now master jewelers are making lighter versions of Bismarck weave jewelry.
How to choose a clasp for a Bismarck chain
For a massive and heavy chain, you need an appropriate lock - strong, durable, trouble-free. If the clasp looks fragile or “frivolous” compared to the chain, it is better to choose another product. Check how the mechanism works - open and close the lock several times.
The most common jewelry clasps:
- Spring lock. A simple clasp that is most often used in fine women's and children's jewelry. The springel lock is small, and therefore it is convenient to fasten and unfasten it for those with small fingers. This type of fastener cannot be repaired; if the spring fails, the lock will have to be replaced.
- Lobster clasp. Strong, reliable lock. Suitable for heavy products, withstands heavy loads. The fastener is partially soldered and partially assembled by hand. If a lobster clasp breaks, in most cases it can be repaired.
Inverted Moscow Bismarck (inverted Muscovite)
Inverted Moscow Bismarck
an original weaving with fairly flat links that form an ornament in the center of the fabric; the weaving combines some elements of Arabic, flat and Moscow bimarks.
Also, from the many types of silver Bismarck weaving products, our website presents:
- Greek Bismarck - the weaving fabric resembles the ornament of the same name; - Tailed Bismarck - rounded links, the product is more openwork, and externally light; — Richelieu — the link resembles a loop with several knots; — Cardinal — the weaving is original and very durable, distinguished by its massiveness; — Python is a complex weave, all the links of the product are multidirectional, it looks like python skin.
Bismarck: suitable for everyone or not?
This jewelry weaving is rightfully considered universal, because thanks to various knitting techniques you can choose the right product for completely different people. Chains of this knitting are chosen by men and women, representatives of different professions, people with different styles of clothing. Theoretically, Bismarck chains can be worn by everyone, but in practice they do not look appropriate on everyone.
- Massive gold chains look inappropriate on young girls - with such jewelry the girl looks older. But on middle-aged and older women, voluminous jewelry looks impressive.
- Jewelry of this type is not suitable for lovers of small, elegant pendants. With a voluminous jewelry chain, you should wear pendants that are appropriate in size (the optimal weight ratio of pendant to chain is 1:2) or not wear them at all.
- Guys with a thin build should be careful when choosing a Bismarck chain - a chain that is too thick will look strange, give preference to products of medium thickness.
Bismarck weaving accounts for the lion's share of chains made all over the world. Such production volumes are justified by the highest demand - Bismarck jewelry is reliable and durable, looks attractive and is liked by almost everyone.
Double Bismarck
By soldering two chains located side by side into one whole, a wide decoration is obtained that has a chic appearance and has increased strength; however, this manufacturing method is used mainly for bracelets.
The form of chain weaving is another opportunity to add variety.
Flat bismarck
, unlike the classic oval, it turns out wider. The beauty of the weaving is achieved through large shiny edges, which visually make the chain more massive.
- can rather be called a men's weave, very similar to anchor weaving. With more weight, it looks quite modest, but it has volume compared to its flat counterpart.
Round
– suitable for women, as it looks more delicate and sophisticated, as can be seen in the photo.
Bracelets
Bismarck bracelets are popular among both women and men. Male counterparts are most often thick and quite rough, with massive locks, while female ones are more openwork and delicate.
In addition, girls often choose Bismarck weave for anklets, since its high density and strength make it possible not to lose the jewelry even while relaxing on the beach and actively swimming.
Description of the technological process
The technique is a multiple connection of links assembled into a characteristic track consisting of several rows. Bismarck weave can be done in different ways:
- Manual. This method is time-consuming and is only used for expensive jewelry. Hand weaving is truly unique. The advantage of this method is that you can order the product according to your design and preferences.
- Machine. The price is not as high as hand weaving, but this method also allows you to create delicate and elegant decorations. The advantage is the best price-quality ratio.
- Stamped. A simple and fast weaving method. The products are of good quality, low price, but they look rough.
Automated weaving is carried out on chain knitting machines. Each of them weaves a product of only one variety.
Stages of making jewelry:
- The gold bar is placed on the machine, thin shavings are cut off, then collected with a soft brush and weighed. Weight control occurs at all stages of jewelry production.
- At the next stage, multi-colored gold is created. Silver, as well as other components, are added to it, but regardless of the color and additives, the sample of the product remains 585.
- Then the gold is placed in a granulator, where within four hours the material is brought to condition at a temperature of 120 degrees.
- The pellets are placed in the furnace to create wire, which is then passed through a drawing machine. After this, the product is treated with a special solution.
- The metal is then placed in a kiln and becomes softer. Burn the wire several times until the required diameter is obtained.
- The wire is sent to the jewelry workshop, here it is cut into links, from which the product is then assembled and the antennae are soldered.
- The finished item is carefully leveled and checked for quality.
- At the last stage, cutting and polishing are carried out.
Products made by hand are much more valuable. They are durable and of the highest quality.
Views of Bismarck
There are many varieties of Bismarck weaving and each is unique. The reason for the emergence of subtypes of this weaving technique is the popularity of jewelry in this style. Photos of the most popular varieties can be seen in the article.
Main types:
- Arab
- Moscow
- Oval
- Glamorous
Arabic Bismarck
The dense interweaving of round segments recreates the Arabic script
. The links are woven in two or more rows. This type of weaving reflects bright light well, and jewelers emphasize this quality with diamond cutting and blackening. Arabic Bismarck is used in jewelry for both sexes.
Moscow Bismarck
This classic subspecies uses a not very dense interweaving of segments with each other - this is how the effect of airiness and lightness is achieved. Products made in the Moscow Bismarck style are characterized by ideal smoothness, durability and strength. This weaving is mainly used for men's bracelets and chains.
Oval Bismarck
The most unusual method of weaving, which uses oval-shaped segments densely intertwined with each other. Oval Bismarck, thanks to the illusion of volume, gives jewelry a solid appearance
.
Glamorous Bismarck
This technique is characterized by the presence of small spheres on both sides of the chain, resulting in a luxurious appearance. The glamorous Bismarck looks great in women's jewelry, such as a necklace.
Types of weaving Bismarck
Depending on the method of interlacing the segments that make up the chain, the following types of weaving are distinguished:
Round
This weaving consists of many round rings, ornately intertwined with each other. Thanks to this, the Bismarck chain is distinguished by its considerable size and is more commonly used in the manufacture of men's bracelets. The round subspecies of Bismarck has other names: imperial, Roman and royal.
Brook
Decorations made using the rivulet technique resemble this body of water in appearance: round links smoothly flow into one another. To carry out work on such an order, the jeweler does not require special equipment. Such a chain and bracelet have a solid appearance and, at the same time, are light in weight, making them accessible to everyone. They are equally good on women and on strong men's necks (wrists).
Python
This kind of weaving appeared in the jewelry industry relatively recently. In its production, a manual method is used. The peculiarity of this technique is in three rows of tightly intertwined thin and graceful links having a round shape. Recently, jewelers have been additionally processing python weaving using diamond cutting. Products made using this technique are in demand by men and women. Python weaving, like the Spanish señora, has many names - caprice, pharaoh, Italian, American and Persian.
Byzantium
The Byzantium chain testifies to the very high qualifications of the jeweler who made it. When creating such a luxurious weave, two types of segments are used simultaneously - simple and in the form of an infinity sign. Thanks to this, a magnificent pattern is created, which is used in both women's and men's jewelry. Jewelry in the Byzantine style is self-sufficient; it is not recommended to burden them with pendants.
Cardinal
Cardinal weaving is considered the most complex, therefore it has the greatest strength and amazes with its external elegance. The links of this weave can be round, oval or square. The cardinal chain is usually made in several rows of links, for example, from two to four. This type of weaving is mainly used for men's jewelry.
Royal
All links are made in the shape of a tiny crown. Preference is given to royal weaving by those who love the most exquisite.
Fox's tail
This weaving is characterized by elegant and intricate patterns of links directed in different directions. Very often, fox tail is used in the production of voluminous jewelry. Its segments have different shapes: oval, circle or square. This subspecies of Bismarck is more often represented in jewelry for women.
Springel-shaped
In this type of weaving, each link has a thickness equal to or greater than its width. The links are usually oval in shape and can be double or triple.
Peculiarities
The main feature is the density of the weaving itself, due to which the products become very strong and wear-resistant, they are not afraid of being deformed or torn. There are two types of Bismarck production, manual and machine; in the second case, this type of production is used only for rare subspecies with two rows of weaving. This weaving has already had many variations, here are the most famous of them:
- Glamorous;
- Single;
- Moscow;
- Abinatha.
Manufacturing technology
The technology for creating Bismarck chains and bracelets from gold or silver is manual, although in modern times there is a variation of this type of laying called “double track”, made by machine. By the way, there can be several rows in Bismarck weaving - three, four or more.
To make such a twisted chain, wire is drawn from precious metals and twisted into a spiral (spring). Such spirals are woven into each other and soldered. The result is a beautiful, dense, strong and densely woven chain.
Gold for Bismarck weaving is one of the most common materials, but jewelry in this design is often made from silver.
Diamond edges on the links and the blackening technique, which enhance the shine and play of light on the products, help to give chains and bracelets made using this technology even more charm and originality.
Depending on the placement of the links in relation to each other, their number and weaving density, different types of products are distinguished.
Bismarck chain as women's and men's jewelry
The Bismarck gold chain is extremely popular among men who value durability and reliability in everything that surrounds them. Representatives of the stronger sex are primarily attracted by the strength of the product; moreover, both the chain and the bracelet of such weaving look complex and original, do not lose their relevance, serve their owner for a long time, and, most importantly, perform their main function 100% - decorate.
Original variations on the “Bismarck” theme, especially rivulet weaving and its Arabic counterpart, products with a diamond cut, are popular among girls. Weaving options with a lower density seem airy and do not overload delicate women’s arms and necks, while the reliability of the products remains just as high.
Caring for chains and bracelets
Braided chains and bracelets are jewelry that is usually worn constantly without taking off. This fact is largely due to the fact that it is quite easy to forget about the presence of a chain on your neck, because you do not see it all the time. After several months of active wear, gold chains lose their original shine and become dull.
With silver chains the situation is even worse, since they not only lose their color uniformity, but also turn black. Such changes are caused by regular exposure of precious metals to sweat and cosmetics used in daily care, as they oxidize.
Water, both sea water and tap water, is no less harmful to jewelry, leaving a residue on the jewelry. Gradually, residual sebum is also deposited on the chains. Daily use under difficult conditions damages not only the chain, but also the lock, inside of which the spring is located. Oxidation of the spring is fraught with breakage of the clasp and the risk of losing the chain and pendants that are worn on it.
To avoid such unfortunate consequences, braided chains and bracelets require regular care and cleaning:
- You can wash Bismarck chains made of gold and silver either with a soap solution or with a special product that is sold in jewelry stores. It is recommended to carry out the procedure as soon as the chain becomes dirty.
- After bath procedures, jewelry is wiped dry and polished with a soft, lint-free cloth, such as suede.
- If chains and bracelets are worn every day, it is important to store them properly to avoid tangling.
- A closed box is best suited for jewelry chains, and each item should be placed in a separate bag made of soft material.
Bismarck weaving is one of the best options for both women's and men's jewelry. Products of such weaving can last for years and even be inherited by future generations.
According to the manufacturing method, all Bismarcks are divided into two types.
Self made
– characterized by high strength, reliability, and quality. The disadvantage is the relatively high labor intensity. After all, each link must be assembled, soldered and processed manually, which affects the cost of production and its price for the consumer.
- This is useful:
If the chain is made to order, you must first discuss all the nuances of what shape, weight, density, length of the Bismarck you want to get in the end.
Machine knitted
, technological progress makes it possible to produce chains of any size at a relatively low price and of fairly good quality. Not every jeweler will take on an order for a five-gram silver Bismarck, or the cost of the work will be unreasonably high. The machines are capable of such a task, which makes it possible to saturate the market need for small chains accessible to a wide range of consumers.
Hollow chains deserve special attention
. A rather complex technological process makes it possible to obtain products made from a tube. With a small weight, such jewelry looks luxurious, however, they have very low strength. There is almost no possibility of repair in case of damage or rupture.
The very high strength and reliability of Bismarck weaving is one of the main reasons for its undying popularity and popular love. The service life, if worn carefully, can be measured in decades, unlike most samples on store displays. The need to repair some of them, especially silver ones, arises after just a few months of operation.
It should be noted that Bismarck is not only chains, but also bracelets. Sets of two products of the same weave are in great demand.
The range is not limited to any one metal. Beautiful snow-white silver or noble gold, it all depends on the solvency or personal preferences of each buyer.
- This is interesting:
As a complement to what you read and saw in the photo, watch the video.
Whole centuries have passed since the moment when man invented the chain. Even during the period of dominance of the Roman Empire, many legionnaires wore this simple accessory. Nowadays, one of the most popular jewelry of this kind is the Bismarck chain. Her beauty, solidity and style have long been appreciated by both beautiful ladies and representatives of strong status.
A little history
In our country, the Bismarck gold chain came into fashion in the nineties. At a time when many were preoccupied with earning their first capital, this decoration was extremely popular among the “brothers” and their immediate circle. The weight of this product was then directly associated with solidity, and therefore for some representatives of that era the Bismarck chain could weigh up to 150 grams. It’s easy to imagine how impressive such an accessory looked. Such a Bismarck chain, in addition to being a kind of insignia, could also, if necessary, be used as a means of protection. Fortunately, the 90s have long sunk into the past, and with them massive jewelry, which is now perceived by many as a sign of bad taste and bad taste, has gone.
The Bismarck chain in our time
Now products with this type of weaving are made weighing from four to fifteen grams. Their undoubted advantage is that Bismarck is perfect for everyone: women, men, children. The second advantage of this decoration is its reliability. The likelihood that the Bismarck chain could break due to carelessness is so minuscule that it can easily be equated to zero. Depending on the country, this type of weaving may have other names, for example “Kaiser” or “Cardinal”. The simplicity of its execution allows jewelers to make such jewelry not only in factories, but also by hand, so everyone can choose the jewelry that they like best. Even a novice jeweler who does not yet have many years of experience will be able to do this weaving. In addition, the tools for making such products are quite easy to purchase in most specialized stores.
Bismarck chains
The extraordinary beauty and popularity of this decoration contributed to the emergence of various variants of its manufacture. This weaving can be round, “liquid” and flat. Let's try to list the main types.
We also note that, in addition to gold, the silver Bismarck chain is also popular now. For many men and women, it is a favorite accessory, especially if it is made to order, taking into account the individual preferences of its owner.
Many women love jewelry. Bracelets, necklaces, earrings, chains and rings made of precious metals, additionally decorated with sparkling stones, allow you to add luxury to any look. Every girl becomes more elegant and sophisticated if she wears beautiful jewelry. Gold chains occupy a worthy place in women's jewelry boxes. They are worn every day! In addition, they are appropriate for special events. A gold chain is the best gift, because the recipient will always be pleased with beautiful gold.
Previously, all jewelry was made by hand, but today chains are made using machine tools - it’s much easier. After all, this makes the work of many jewelers easier, allowing ladies to save their own money, because on the machine the chain links are given a minimum thickness, therefore, the cost of the finished product is reduced. And although there are a large number of types of weaving gold chains, there are also those that, in terms of their demand, have held the lead for several decades. Among such jewelry, the women's gold chain, which is made using Bismarck weaving, stands out.
Why is the Bismarck chain called that?
Just one glance at the name is enough for an association with Otto von Bismarck to appear. Although it cannot be said with 100% certainty that the name of the decoration has a direct bearing on it. Although these products look durable, massive, majestic and reliable, this is exactly what the first Chancellor of the German Empire was described in historical works! Maybe the jewelers decided to show their respect for Bismarck in this way by christening a type of chain weaving after him. Whether this is a legend or the truth is up to you to decide, but at the same time, the story is beautiful - this should not be denied.
Although there is a more realistic story of how Bismarck weaving came about. When the countries of the USSR became independent in the early 1990s, criminal groups were everywhere. The economy was just beginning to be built then. It so happened that representatives of criminals began to wear chains that were made with Bismarck weave. Massive gold chains told more about their owners than even themselves! At that time, the weight of jewelry could reach up to 500 grams; they were considered status items. But over time, men's jewelry became lighter, more sophisticated, and beautiful, so women were happy to take a fancy to it. Today, the Bismarck chain is a decoration for both men and women.
A variety of subspecies of Bismarck weaving
First, let's look at the classic Bismarck weave, which consists of springy spirals that are connected to each other. Such chains are made by hand by winding silver or gold wire onto crossbars. Then the resulting spiral is cut into fragments (one and a half turns), untwisted a little, then wound onto subsequent spirals. Next, the canvas is pressed tightly with a press - the Bismarck chain is ready!
A chain made with double bismarck weaving is created in a similar way, only the parts are connected in pairs.
“Triple Bismarck” - three connected spirals. By the way, hollow elements ultimately allow you to maintain the classic look, as well as the size of the product, while its weight is almost halved (as is the price)!
Based on the shape of the spirals, their size, and the way they are connected to each other, the weavings are called “Arab”, “Kaiser”, “Garibaldi”, “Cardinal”. All these products have one thing in common - they are incredibly strong, quite large, and durable. A Bismarck chain made of gold or silver is an excellent investment in the future (can be worn for at least 50 years), as well as an exquisite piece of jewelry that suits absolutely everyone.
Many dozens of centuries ago, a chain appeared as a decoration, which became widespread among the legionnaires of Ancient Rome. From then until now, it has not gone out of fashion; it has only been supplemented with pendants, crosses, Muslim symbols and pendants.
The most popular in modern times are chains and bracelets made of precious metals using Bismarck weave. The beauty, durability and status of such jewelry were appreciated by both men and women.
The weaving is named after the “iron” Chancellor of the German Empire Otto von Bismarck
. He was an outstanding politician of his time, under whom Germany became a strong state. Therefore, jewelers, as a sign of respect, immortalized the name of Bismarck in the same durable and reliable jewelry as the character of the Kaiser.
By purchasing jewelry made in the Bismarck style as a gift, you can say that you have made a long-term investment in gold, which only grows in value over the years. After all, not everyone can buy gold bars weighing a kilogram, but a chain and necklace with an average weight of 10 to 35 grams are available to a wide range of people.
Bismarck weaving is one of the most favorite ways of weaving jewelry among customers. It has other names - “Kaiser” and “Cardinal”
. This type of weaving became very popular in the CIS countries in the “dashing” nineties of the last century, when the jewelry wardrobe of the nouveau riche was dominated by heavy, solid chains weighing 100 grams or more. Over the years, fashion has undergone great changes - bulky and elaborate jewelry has been replaced by elegant and delicate ones. Bismarck weaving is a unisex style, because a chain with such weaving looks advantageous on both men and women.
What to combine the chain with
Despite the complexity and originality of Bismarck weaving, combining it with other decorations is quite easy. The easiest way is to choose a bracelet of a similar weave to go with the chain, and it is important that the color of the metal used in the manufacture of both products matches. In addition, the chain and the bracelet do not have to have the same thickness - the latter can be several times more massive than the first, but the type of weaving in the jewelry must be the same.
“Bismarck” is also common in combination with body crosses and amulet, and its high strength allows it to withstand quite weighty pendants. At the same time, there is a rule according to which the weight of the pendant should not exceed half the weight of the chain, otherwise the chain may break. The rule applies to both Bismarck chains made of silver and gold.
All kinds of pendants and pendants can be combined with both a chain and a bracelet made of this weave, while when choosing a pendant, it is important to check that its eye passes freely through the chain.
Advantages
Bismarck has a number of noticeable advantages over other types of chain weaving.
Its main advantages are:
- Long service life.
- Stylish appearance of the products.
- High resistance to deformation, damage and abrasion.
- High density of the product, allowing it to be complemented with large, heavy pendants.
Bismarck gold chains are products that are purchased for many years and lose their relevance. A wide range and many variations of bracelets and chains of this type allow you to choose jewelry to suit every taste and budget.