Which gold standard is better - 750 or 585: what is the difference, pros and cons + reviews


Post updated: Jun 6, 2020

750 gold is the leader in sales worldwide. What is the reason for such popularity? Let's try to figure it out.

Gold is the oldest noble metal discovered by man and used in ancient times. Various products of fabulous value and no less impressive beauty are discovered at the sites of excavations of ancient pyramids and burials, because the yellow metal was highly valued even then.

In our times, it has not lost its value and is used in jewelry and banking.

Now it is produced in the form of ingots for bank storage, plates for processing various surfaces and in the form of decorative wire.

After a cycle of purifying gold from various impurities, it receives the highest percentage of purity, while becoming very elastic and fragile, which makes it impossible to use it as jewelry.

To enhance strength and hardness, admixtures of other precious (and not so precious) metals are used. In precious metals, the hallmark determines the amount of pure metal per kilogram of alloy.

How are these samples different?

Native precious metal is cloudy and soft and is not suitable for making rings or earrings. It is malleable, like plasticine, and can be easily kneaded with your hands. For example, an ingot of high-grade gold the size of an index finger can easily be rolled into a thirty-meter thread.

Composition and strength

Ligatures are metals that are introduced into gold to impart strength. The more impurities in the jewelry, the denser they will be. In addition, the presence of additional components makes it possible to create jewelry of the desired shade, increase brightness and increase the price.

The composition of 585 sample usually includes the following elements:

  • silver;
  • nickel;
  • copper;
  • palladium.

The list of filler metals in the 750 marking is not very different; you can only add platinum.

Appearance and features of the brand

Externally, there is no difference between metric stamps 750 and 585. Russian products are branded with the image of a female profile, looking to the right, at the numbers. On the left is a letter denoting the state inspectorate that issued the stamp.

Marking can be either single or separate. Contains the following information:

  • civil service code;
  • marking of the precious metal share;
  • Assay certificate mark.

Difference between different purity grades

The purity graduation shows the percentage of precious metal contained in jewelry per 1000 g. Thus, a sample of 585 means that 58.5% of 100% pure gold in it, respectively 750 - 75%. The remaining part indicates the amount of impurities.

Expert opinion

Vsevolod Kozlovsky

6 years in jewelry making. Knows everything about samples and can identify a fake in 12 seconds

Craftsmen value the metric 585 alloy for its hardness and strength, which makes forging easy. 750 standard is excellent for jewelry, excellent for casting, polishing and soldering. It is resistant to aggressive chemicals.

In the world classification of gold, in addition to metric hallmarking, the carat system is used. The 750 stamp will be equal to 18 carats, and the 585 will be 14.

Differences in guest standards and quality

GOSTs provide the following definitions for marking:

  • Zl – gold;
  • Wed – silver;
  • Pl – platinum;
  • N – nickel;
  • M – copper;
  • C – zinc;
  • Kd – cadmium;
  • Pd – palladium;
  • Ost. - the rest.

Differences in sample composition according to GOST:

TryBrandComponent share in %
GoldSilverPalladiumPlatinum
585ZlSr58,5-59,0Ost.
ZlSrM7,5–8,5
ZlSrM19,5–20,5
ZlSrM29,5–30,5
ZlSrPd25,0–26,0Ost.
ZlSrPdTs28,2–29,29,5-10,5
ZlSrPdKd27,5–28,59,5-10,5
ZlSrNTsM7,5–8,5
ZlNTsM
750ZlSr75,0-75,524,5–25,5
ZlSrM12,0–13,0
ZlSrM14,5–15,5
ZlSrNC14,5–15,5
ZlSrPd9,5–10,5Ost.
ZlSrPlM7,5–8,58,5-9,5
ZlSrPdN8,5–9,513,5-14,5
ZlSrPdN6,5–7,513,5-14,5
ZlSrPdNKd *8,5–9,58,0-9,0
ZlNTsM
* Contains boron from 0.0008 to 0.040%

As can be seen in the table, a certain amount of impurities is acceptable. Any deviation from the standards is considered defective and sent for re-melting. Therefore, when purchasing products in specialized stores marked 585 and 750, you can rest assured that they comply with the standards.

Price and demand

The cost of jewelry corresponds to the quality of the alloy. 585 alloys are popular on the Russian market. This is due to the relatively low price per 1 gram and greater wear resistance. Example of a price chart for 585 samples:

A product with a 750 stamp will cost more. Here is a table of the cost of 750 samples for comparison:

Price 999 standard according to the Central BankMarket value of the sample todayScrap pricePrice in jewelry

It should be noted that it is the 750th that is considered in demand in the world, since it contains a larger amount of gold. Items made by Italian craftsmen are especially valued. When processing, they use technologies known only to families of jewelers and passed on from generation to generation. These jewelry have one distinctive feature - the absence of a red tint.

Price

Products with the 750 marking have a high cost, but despite this fact, they are in demand in the jewelry market. Trading participants, producers and consumers, monitor the price per gram of gold. It can change, and its meaning is influenced by several aspects:

  • the cost of a noble nugget on the world market;
  • price for yellow metal approved by the Central Bank of the Russian Federation;
  • complexity of the product, payment for the work of the craftsman;
  • industrial production costs;
  • mass, color;
  • manufacturer's fame.

The average cost is formed from monitoring prices in purchases, pawn shops, and jewelry stores. At the beginning of autumn 2021, the average price for 1 gram of 750 gold is 3,500 rubles.

For comparison, 1 gram of 585 brand is one and a half times cheaper than 750.

Advantages and disadvantages of 750 and 585 samples

Each alloy has positive and negative sides. So, 585 gold has the following advantages:

  • affordable price;
  • retains shine longer even with daily wear;
  • more choice of products;
  • difficult to deform.

The disadvantage is the increased nickel content in the composition, which can lead to the development of an allergic reaction in people whose skin is sensitive to the component.

Advantages of 750 sample:

  • more gold in the alloy;
  • wide color palette;
  • emphasizes status;
  • more profitable investment.

Flaws:

  • high price;
  • softness;
  • not suitable for frequent wear;
  • quickly loses shine;
  • deformed upon strong impact.

Brand

The mark placed on a gold product must have a clear structure with the following mandatory components:

  1. A code that belongs to the State Assay Supervision Inspectorate.
  2. Assay certificate mark.
  3. Digital designation of the direct sample.

A product made of 18-karat gold must have a clearly visible number 750.

Which type of decoration is best to choose?

You must choose based on the purpose of your purchase. So, if you plan to use it daily, then it would be better to take jewelry with the 585 stamp.

For special occasions or when choosing an elegant and unusual gift, you should give preference to the 750 stamp, since this alloy is considered more valuable. Gold of this marking is often used in the decoration of expensive and unique things. In addition, the purchased items will be harmless, even if the alloy contains nickel.

Also watch the video below about different types of gold hallmarks:

The most common “golden” colors

If you look closely at any gold jewelry, you can accurately determine its “additional” color.

  1. White, very fashionable in recent years, is obtained using silver, platinum, palladium and nickel. The “economical” option uses zinc, nickel and copper as alloys.
  2. The red one uses copper as a base, plus a little silver.
  3. The purple color is achieved by combining palladium, cobalt and aluminum with a gold base.
  4. Blue, a rather rare two-component alloy, is achieved by combining gold with “regular” iron.
  5. Green is an addition of silver and cadmium. If tellurium is added to gold instead, the result will be a delicate light olive color.
  6. Black color can be obtained by adding nickel and cobalt to the base in a certain proportion.

It is worth saying that “colored” gold is always more a tribute to fashion than an investment. For real investments, as before, people use solar metal of the highest standard in the classic “golden” color.

Recommendations for care, cleaning and storage

All jewelry, including gold, becomes dirty during wear, so they need to be cleaned.

Expert opinion

Vsevolod Kozlovsky

6 years in jewelry making. Knows everything about samples and can identify a fake in 12 seconds

Items marked 585 do not require special treatment, but they must be polished at least once a week using chamois or cloth. But in order for gold with a 750 stamp to serve for a long time, it is necessary to take care of it, protect it from moisture, mechanical damage and reagents (hydrochloric acid and aqua regia).

The chlorine contained in disinfectants has a bad effect on the condition of any gold, so it is recommended to remove jewelry before cleaning. The same should be done before going to the pool.

It is better to store jewelry in a case, clean it with special pastes and liquids, and polish it regularly.

Italian gold

Italian gold

Many reputable jewelry stores offer customers products made from “Italian gold.” These are jewelry with a special type of processing. Thanks to careful polishing, a visual shine effect is created. Finely crafted items are decorated with various ornaments.

Italy is a unique country. It ranks third in the world in jewelry production, producing no more than 100 kilograms of gold per year. Italian jewelers purchase the rest of the material in South Africa.

Italian jewelry is bought by the USA, Switzerland, the United Arab Emirates, China and other countries.

When purchasing such jewelry, do not forget that for Italian 18-carat gold, scammers can pass off a product of lower quality.

The colors of Italian gold, which can have white and yellow shades, are unusual for the Russian eye. The quality of real Italian products must be confirmed by a certificate.

Shades

They increase strength by adding nickel (cheap) or palladium (more expensive and gives the alloy an unusual shade). Copper adds hardness and a red-pink color (wedding rings are made), silver adds green. Palladium gives a white tint; premium brands work with the resulting white alloy.

Italian gold is bright yellow with an admixture of silver, without any copper at all. Used for jewelry with complex designs. Egyptian and Turkish gold often has a purity lower than stated - there is a lot of copper, which affects the price.

Most popular alloy

Most often, 750-carat gold is used to make designer jewelry. Such an alloy contains 75% pure aurum per kilogram and only 25% ligature. Depending on the composition of the latter, products may have different strength characteristics and colors, but the cost of such jewelry will always be an order of magnitude higher than that of a ring with less markings.

If you choose which gold standard is better - 585 or 750, then the latter of them has a number of advantages. First of all, it is high strength and wear resistance. Jewelry made from such an alloy will retain its original appearance for a long time.

Jewelers also value this sample, since only from this alloy can one create truly amazing masterpieces with the smallest details, because due to the high aurum content, the material becomes very plastic. Well, in conclusion: products made from this metal have always been considered prestigious.

White gold

18k white gold is an alloy of gold with palladium or nickel, sometimes platinum. The white gold alloy has a characteristic dull shine. To give it brightness, a thin rhodium coating is used, which, if the jewelry is worn frequently, requires regular updating.

When making jewelry, a characteristic technique is used - granulation. By welding tiny granules to a very thin gold plate, they are used to create a pattern on the product.

Historical and scientific excavations indicate that this type of jewelry technology has ancient origins.

The granulation technique is currently used by famous jewelry houses BULGARI, DIMIANI and others. When purchasing gold products, you should pay attention not only to the price, but also to the availability of passports and certificates.

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