Before buying a precious metal, you need to study its external signs. A stamp is required. This will mean that the jewelry meets the metal purity rating system. The standard defines several types of samples. Each contains an encrypted amount of pure gold. Among the well-known designations (585, 750, etc.) you can also find less common ones.
There is a 555 probe, but few people know what is encrypted in it. Theoretically, this could be a hallmark of the purity of the precious metal, but not everything is so simple. You need to find out what types of samples there are according to GOST, and whether the option under consideration applies to them.
Branding methods
Previously, jewelry was marked with a convex test. Later, its appearance was changed, as was the method of application. Technologies used today:
- impact method: was popular earlier, based on mechanical impact on metal with a self-made impact stamp;
- electroerosion (electric spark method): this option has many advantages, they note that there is no risk of severe deformation of the metal, creating zones of concentration of internal stress, as a result, they receive a mark with a depth of 0.1 to 1 mm, and the best characteristics are distinguished by a test made on a hot, colored metal, as well as when applied using a press;
- laser engraving: the technology ensures high precision of execution, which allows it to be used for making micro-stamps, the laser beam is considered the thinnest tool, it is used to make signs up to 1 mm in size, this is the method that has become widespread today, in addition, there is another factor that indicates about the wide capabilities of the laser - non-contact implementation.
Jewelry mark
Silver samples used in ancient times
Previously, various alloys of silver were popular. Each of them had a special appearance and use. The old compositions are as follows:
- blackened silver - was common in Rus' for making things with beautiful black patterns. The accessories are very durable and do not require cleaning;
- oxidized silver - the metal combines with sulfur and this leads to darkening. Replaces blackening, may have a purple tint. It was found in the USSR, with differences by year;
- matte silver – resistant to oxidation, used during the Russian Empire;
- gold-plated silver - a thin layer of gold is sprayed onto the silver. Typical of 19th century France.
There are other alloys that were used in ancient times, but these varieties were the most popular.
Sample 5S5: various hypotheses of formation
The cost of products marked with the 5S5 designation is often lower than certified products offered in stores. This feature can be explained by various reasons:
- the number in 585 sample, erased from age: in composition, the metal with the designation 5S5 or 555 fully corresponds to this alloy, this means that it contains 585 g of gold, respectively, the changed number is a consequence of abrasion of the material, for example, under regular mechanical action;
- the result of application through a stencil using the electric spark method: as wear progresses, traces of use appear, for example, sometimes white metal turns yellow when the surface layer is erased; in the same way, a sample made in an insufficiently reliable way loses its outline and depth over time (for example, with regular self-grinding inappropriate ways);
- 5S5 is a fake of scammers: this combination of numbers and letters vaguely resembles the designation 585, if the sample is applied at a shallow depth or has small dimensions, and is also located in an area of complex configuration, it is unlikely to be examined without a magnifying glass, this is what unscrupulous sellers are counting on To avoid purchasing a low-quality product, it is recommended to study the appearance of the jewelry more carefully; you do not need to completely rely on the advice of a jewelry store employee;
- 5S5 is a quality mark from the Assay Office: many people mistakenly believe that a sample containing a letter is a special mark that is placed by the supervisory authority, thus determining the quality of the jewelry; in fact, you need to look for other reasons for the appearance of such a designation, because on All gold products are affixed by the government agency (Federal Assay Office) with standard seals according to the precious metal content.
Carat system
It has been widespread in America, as well as in Europe and Asia for about a century. According to it, gold with 99.9% in the alloy can be considered completely pure, which is identical to 24k. Further figures in descending order are 23, 22, 18, 14, 12, 9 and 8 carats.
Metric system
The most popular method of calculation today due to its accuracy and convenience. Shows how many percent of gold, without taking into account the ligature, contains 1000 weight particles of the alloy, or the amount of gold metal in 1 g of jewelry. The following scale for measuring gold hallmarks has been established: 375, 500, 583, 585, 750, 916, 958, 999.
Spool system
It was in active use during the times of Ancient Rus'. The Russian pound measuring 96 spools was taken as a basis. The number 96 indicated on the stamp meant that the alloy was 99.9% yellow metal. In second place was the indicator 36. To convert to the modern karate system, the indicator indicated on the engraving is divided by 4.
Lot system
It was in use in medieval Europe. Back then, jewelers measured the weight of the product in marks, each of which consisted of 16 lots. Gold was hallmarked with hallmarks of 6, 8, 12, 14, 16. To convert lots into carats, their indicator was multiplied by 125 and divided by 2.
Over time, the system was improved, and it became easier to find out the percentage of the precious metal included in the composition. In modern jewelry, the metric and carat systems are used as the basis. The first is widespread in European countries, including Russia, while the second is preferred in the West.
Methods for verifying the authenticity of 5S5 gold and purchasing the original 585 standard
If you suspect that the seller is dishonest or the product is of low quality, it is better to immediately go to one of the stores of a large jewelry chain, where all products are certified. However, there are ways to ensure that your gold items are of good quality:
- when gold falls, you can hear a ringing sound that resembles crystal;
- the weight of the jewelry is significant even in the absence of stone inserts; for comparison, silver and costume jewelry are light;
- if the product has already been purchased, you can drop it with acid (nitric), the appearance of the 585 gold alloy will not change the properties;
- applying lapis pencil - nothing will happen upon contact with gold, but a low-quality product will darken in this area.
Gold check
What types of gold are there?
In jewelry, there are four types of samples - the so-called “quality marks”. Today, only two are used for marking gold products.
The numbers indicate the quantitative degree of precious metal content in the total weight of the object, everything else is impurities. The higher these indicators, the more precious the product is considered.
Tests are made when the percentage of precious metal presence exceeds 30. In Russia, some manufacturers also use name letters in engravings, denoting their organization with them.
Properties and wide range of 585 gold jewelry
Jewelry marked with the 585 designation represents the gold standard. This is the most common mark among the others, which is why fakes are quite common. In terms of properties, jewelry containing 58.5% gold differs in properties:
- hard;
- wear-resistant;
- with high fusibility;
- There are different shades, which is determined by the ratio of ligatures.
Jewelry 585 is represented by a wide range of products of different types, shapes and design complexity. Available for purchase:
- rings;
- bracelets;
- pendants;
- chains;
- necklace;
- earrings, etc.
Gold jewelry
Special and rare varieties of silver samples
In addition to the described types of samples, there are others, but these options are considered the most popular among jewelers. Other countries use other systems: in Canada and the USA - carat, and in ancient times - spool (for example, 92sf is 960 silver). You can also meet other types of alloys:
- 750 – high copper content and darkens very quickly;
- 720 and below is base silver that has a yellowish tint and is used industrially because it has high electrical conductivity.
There are also rare types of samples:
- 325 is Tibetan silver, which was previously considered a high-quality alloy for making jewelry. Today, the composition may not contain any precious metal at all and is used to produce counterfeits;
- 500 – an alloy with a low proportion of argentum, from which coins were minted;
- 525,585,625 - gold samples to which silver is added are sometimes indicated as gilded silver;
- 825 - such a sample does not exist, and scammers often put it on stamps;
- 835, 800 and 900 – silver alloy used in Germany;
- 916 – was popular in Soviet times with a barrel stamp. The alloy was needed to produce dishes and ritual items.
All of these types of silver have their own special characteristics and were used in a specific historical period. Today they are extremely rare.
Reviews
I couldn't see the sample when I bought it. I found a piece of jewelry that I liked at a pawn shop. Of course, the ring is used, but from the outside I wouldn’t say that anyone was wearing it. They offered me a magnifying glass, the only way I was convinced that it was really 585 gold and not a fake with a letter designation.
Valentina P., Donetsk
Alisa T. g, Ivanovo
Somehow I fell for a fraudulent scheme: I bought a ring in the jewelry department, I didn’t study the mark, I just noticed that it was there. But she noted to herself that in the center of sample 585 there was some kind of low eight. When the ring turned black, I realized that I had been deceived, but it was too late to look for the scammers, they disappeared. I examined the sample, and it said 5S5.
I thought I had already seen everything, but I didn’t expect to see a sample of 5S5 in a fairly large store. They explained something to me about the methods of applying the sample, but the ring was then removed from the counter. Of course, I didn’t believe it, which was confirmed when the product disappeared from sale.
Vasily P, Voronezh
How much does this sample cost?
The presented type of mark is very popular among buyers, since it speaks of the strength of the product, ensured by the balanced percentage combination of precious metals in it.
The market price of gold changes almost daily, so the exact cost of 1 gram of 585 marking currently needs to be found out in specialized institutions. In jewelry stores, the price of pure gold is a third higher than in pawnshops.
| Price 999 standard according to the Central Bank | Market value of the sample today | Scrap price | Price in jewelry |
Question No. 1. “Where do they put the stamp on earrings, chains, pendants, bracelets?”
According to international rules, testing and hallmarking of jewelry should not affect its appearance . Therefore, the mark can only be placed on the back side of jewelry, clasps, or, if we are talking about interior accessories or products made of thin parts, on a special soldered plate made of the same metal.
On a ring, stamps are placed on the inside of the back of the product in the middle or under the mounts for precious stones (from the finger side). The mark on a wedding ring, if it is not decorated with a stone or ornament, may be located on the outside of the rim.
On pendants, the sample is placed in the area of the ring on which the main part of the pendant is attached. If you want to check the authenticity of earrings, you should look for the mark on the clasp of the product. The same goes for necklaces and bracelets. However, on solid bracelets, the mark may also be on the back side of the base.
How to distinguish counterfeit (white gold) ... and other threats to white gold
First, determine what standard is on the white gold of the jewelry. A high standard means that it is worth turning to iodine , which will help determine whether you are looking at gold or silver. Iodine does not react with gold; it is easy to wipe off the substance from the surface of the jewelry by swiping a strip with a cotton swab first. If you were sold silver under the guise of white gold, the metal will immediately react with iodine and begin to turn yellow. Repeat a similar trick with vinegar . Gold in acetic acid will remain the same, silver will darken, and jewelry whose metal contains unstable impurities will make the water cloudy.
By the way, does white gold exist in nature? This is a popular question with a paradoxical answer: yes. This is the name given to the metal electrum (electrum), which contains from 16% to 69% silver. The natural alloy with a characteristic light shade is rare; you won’t find jewelry with it on the market.
Since white gold is more expensive than yellow gold, the question arises of how to distinguish white metal from a fake in a store. Run the jewelry over a white sheet of paper with pressure - silver or sputtered jewelry will leave a mark, but solid gold will not. We recommend that you pay attention to the shine of white gold – gold is characterized by a bright highlight, silver – by a dull one.
PS If you don’t understand why white gold is more expensive, although it doesn’t look as bright as yellow or red, what accessories made of this metal are best to wear this season, and why, ask about it in the comments to the article and get an answer.
Sincerely, Andrey Fedorenko , director of the online store TopGrant.ru
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What does white gold go with? Stones, pearls, clothes
Which standard of white gold is better depends on preferences and appearance characteristics. White gold in warm shades with a matte surface is acceptable for business etiquette - wear gold not only to social events, if the crown of the jewelry is a semi-precious stone. White gold looks wonderful with cold-colored stones - aquamarine, turquoise, topaz, amethyst, agate, lapis lazuli. The hallmark number of white gold in everyday jewelry is 585.
White gold, the standard it should be, is not so important, it is suitable for people with fair skin men wear gold with pleasure , and children are allowed to wear white gold in the form of an everyday pendant or ring - they do not attract so much unwanted attention and resemble silver. White gold is suitable for owners of brown and blue eyes.
“Textbook combinations” of white gold – with black pearls and diamonds – are intended for social evenings, trips to the theater and restaurants. Combine these stones with an evening dress in black or a cool shade. What is the hallmark of white gold, photos of which you see in the catalogue? These are 750 sterling wedding rings that are durable and versatile. They are not coated with platinum, so they will not suffer from intense friction and regular wear.
