What are the hallmarks of gold in jewelry, the cost of 585 gold in Russia


Gold is a metal that is perfectly susceptible to all kinds of mechanical damage and corrosion. To preserve the original appearance of the precious metal, other impurities are constantly added to it, in the vast majority of cases metals that are more resistant to damage.

Ligatures are metals used to give gold greater strength. Most often, silver or copper is used as a ligature. Pure gold (without any impurities) is highly susceptible to deformation, very much like simple plasticine.

What standard of gold is considered the best?

Depends on what the noble metal will be used for. For the manufacture of rings, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry, 585 and 750 gold are most suitable, as they will provide the product with the necessary strength and spectacular appearance.

For fine jewelry work, you can use 916 gold, however, provided that the elements made from this alloy are not subject to constant stress and wear. Of course, pure 999 gold is the purest and most expensive, but it is practically useless for jewelry and is used primarily as an investment tool.

Gold price

In addition to pawn shops, you can find out the value of your product yourself. The price of 1 gram of gold is set by the Central Bank of Russia.


Gold price

As of July 2021, this is approximately 2867 rubles per gram. The price of 1 gram of 585 gold in jewelry will vary from 2300 to 3400 rubles. In addition to the cost of the gold itself, the price includes the labor of the jeweler, the complexity of the design, and additional materials (not precious stones). The cheapest gold standard 375 in a pawnshop will cost 900-1000 rubles per gram. The cost of a gram of 750 gold varies from 2000-2100 rubles. And the most expensive gold sample is ~ 2900 rubles. Pure gold is more expensive, but of course it is less common.

Since 2000, the price of gold has risen steadily. In 2011 it reached its apogee ~ 4200 rubles per gram. Afterwards the price began to gradually decrease. Since 2021, the cost has remained approximately at the same level. However, investing in metal is always considered a profitable business, and it is better to buy gold.

Author of the article: Alexandra Naumenko

Characteristics

Gold is not attracted by a magnet, is not afraid of corrosion, weighs a lot and shines brightly. What other physical properties does it differ from?

Composition and properties

“Four nines,” as the highest sample is also called, also contains impurities, but in trace quantities. Per kilogram of precious metal, 0.1 grams of alloy are allowed, which allows such gold to be considered pure. The maximum sample gives the following qualities:

  1. High ductility and malleability. The metal can easily be rolled into thin gold sheets or drawn into wire.
  2. Softness. Fine gold scores 2.5 on the Mohs scale, which is just above the hardness of plaster (2), which can be scratched with a fingernail.
  3. Density 19,321 kg/m³. There are only five denser metals in the world: platinum, osmium, iridium, rhenium, plutonium.
  4. High thermal conductivity.
  5. Low electrical resistance.

Gold is neither a fusible nor a refractory metal. The melting point of 1063 °C is average.

Strength

Products created for household use must be wear-resistant. The item can easily be dropped or scratched, and in the case of pure gold, such an impact will be fatal. The high softness of 999 is what makes it unsuitable as a material for jewelry or cutlery. Their service life would be too short.

Alloy shade chart

The color of pure metal of the highest standard is yellow, it is not for nothing that in ancient cultures it was compared to the sun. There are a variety of shades on the market: white, red and even greenish gold. A wide choice is achieved by supplementing pure metal with an alloy: copper, silver, palladium, nickel, cadmium, platinum, zinc.

Impurities not only change color, but also impart the desired properties - mainly increase hardness. It is especially important for jewelry that involves attaching stones, but a pure sample is not suitable for a simple ring either, precisely because it is unstable to damage.

ColorTryGoldSilverCopperPalladium
pale yellow37537,5%10%48,7%3,8%
yellow58358,3%8%33,7%
greenish58358,3%30%11,7%
red58358,3%41,7%
white58358,3%25,7%16%
yellow75075%17%8%
pink75075%12,5%12,5%
white75075%5%20%

There are alloys where platinum is involved. It, like palladium, provides gold with its white color.

Brand

The practice of putting a brand on precious bars originated in Europe in the 13th century, and in Russia in the 17th century. The silhouettes changed along with the power: the double-headed eagle was replaced by a lady’s profile, which was replaced by a hammer and sickle. Today in the Russian Federation, jewelry is again branded with a woman’s head.

On jewelry produced in Russia, stamps were introduced indicating the fineness according to the metric system (585, 750), and in North America and Switzerland - according to the carat system (18 K, 14 K).

How many carats are in this sample?

The highest purity of the metal implies maximum purity in all testing systems. A metric fineness of 999.9 equals 24 carats.

Pros of 999 proof

This is almost pure gold, which is used for profitable investments, in addition, such a material is ideal for the following:

  1. Creation of gilding.
  2. Coverings with tinsel.

In some cases, the material is used to make jewelry, but such products are small, expensive and weigh a lot.

Gold plating is a material used to cover the surface of silver or copper. The result is a piece of jewelry with a characteristic yellow color, but at the same time its cost is significantly lower than jewelry made of gold.

Leaf coating is used as thin sheets of gold; it is suitable for creating designs on sets, vases, as a decorative element and for covering the domes of churches and cathedrals. Gold leaf is applied to the surface of the domes to prevent exposure to environmental factors.

At the same time, the highest standard of gold is considered impractical when it comes to jewelry. Such products:

  • heavy;
  • are expensive;
  • deformed.

An exception are wedding rings, which, due to their weight, retain their shape; the surface of the rings does not corrode and does not lose its shine and color over the years, but scratches quickly appear on the surface of the jewelry.

Pure gold has a characteristic red hue - a specific red color.

Composition of gold alloys

In addition to gold, jewelry alloys contain a ligature, which can consist of:

  • platinum (increases elasticity, discolors gold, increases melting point);
  • silver (increases ductility, makes the alloy more malleable and easier to process, gives a white tint);
  • palladium (brightens, imparts plasticity, increases the melting point);
  • nickel (gives hardness, “whitens”, increases resistance to corrosion, but can cause an allergic reaction);
  • cadmium (thanks to it, the alloy melts easier, it also gives a greenish tint);
  • copper (increases hardness, gives a reddish tint, reduces anti-corrosion properties);
  • zinc (improves the fluidity of the metal, reduces the melting point, can give a greenish tint).

These additives increase the consumer properties of the alloy - making it stronger, more durable, and resistant to wear. The hallmark designation in numbers is applied to each piece of jewelry, as required by the legislation of the Russian Federation (all products made from alloys containing more than 30% precious metal must be stamped).

Carat sample system


Based on the British carat system, one carat (K) is equal to twenty-fourths of the alloy. A similar sampling system is common in Switzerland, the United States of America, Canada and Western European countries. In Ireland, two standard systems are used equally: carat and metric. The noble metal of twenty-four carats (24K) is considered the purest. It is completely free of any other impurities. Next comes 14-karat gold, which contains fourteen parts of the precious metal and ten parts of other metals.

general information

Gold is a metal that is listed as number 79 on the periodic table of chemical elements. In Latin it is called Aurum, abbreviated as Au. Gold owes its name to its color, because in translation it means “yellow”. If we turn to mythological sources, then there is an obvious parallel with Aurora - the goddess of the morning dawn, who every day illuminates the sky with a morning golden strip of light. Gold is soft; the metal itself in its pure form is quite malleable and easily bends and changes shape.

It is not so easy to extract pure gold, because it can be hidden deep in the depths of rocks, or mixed with soil, silt, sand, and other minerals. Gold mining can be done industrially, in the form of mining a gold-bearing vein. In this case, the rock is sifted using special heavy equipment, leaving behind gold grains and throwing out unnecessary soil. Such equipment can also operate on a platform installed in a large body of water. A more painstaking, but quite relevant method of extraction is working in the mountains and on streams.

Typically, gold is washed out of the rocks and settles at the bottom of the stream. It is not always possible to find a large piece of metal; more often, prospectors are engaged in filtering silt and sand, during which gold grains settle at the bottom of special dishes. This method is possible due to the high density of the material. At the bottom you can also find nuggets - pieces of pure gold. However, the procedure is very labor intensive as the particles are often barely visible to the human eye.

Honorable third place

750 standard is two-thirds pure gold. The ligature is represented by the same metals as in the 585 sample. This gold corresponds to eighteen carats. It lends itself well to jewelry processing, as it has good malleability. The products are durable, but their price is quite high. Not every buyer can afford high-status jewelry. Global jewelry brands choose gold of the highest 750 standard for the production of their products. When asked what exactly is the best standard of gold, many jewelers will name this specimen.

This is interesting! The core inside our planet contains a huge amount of gold. It is believed that they can cover the entire Earth, with a layer of one and a half meters.

Fifty-fifty

Gold 500 in the karat system is identical to twelve carats. This alloy consists of only half of precious metal, so its cost is low. The color palette directly depends on the ratio of silver and copper. Poor castability does not allow the alloy to be used in the jewelry industry. Moreover, in a couple of years such a ring will become inconspicuous and dull. In our country and the CIS countries this alloy is practically not used. Such products are not presented in domestic jewelry stores, but the world wide production of inexpensive cufflinks, spectacle frames, pens, and brooches is on a large scale.

This is interesting! Modern Olympic medals contain only 1% gold.

Recommendations for care and cleaning

Gold bars of the highest standard are very vulnerable to mechanical stress, so they should be stored carefully, separately, avoiding contact with each other.

It is best to choose cases lined with soft fabric, such as velvet, on the inside. You should not take the ingot with your bare hands - buy gloves for this.

Sample 999.9 is not suitable for abrasive cleaning; it must be protected from interaction with aggressive substances (paints, solvents, acids). There are ways to wash the item with ammonia solution or shampoo, but the best option is special jewelry pastes. Polish using a small piece of cloth or suede.

Does real gold darken?

999.9 and other samples with a low content of impurities do not darken or fade over time (if stored carefully). An alloy with a large number of alloying components can oxidize - this is especially true for copper, and it is present in abundance in red gold and 375-carat gold.

Tips for choosing gold jewelry

Expert opinion

Vsevolod Kozlovsky

6 years in jewelry making. Knows everything about samples and can identify a fake in 12 seconds

It is not recommended to buy jewelry made of 375-carat gold, despite its attractive price. They are equated to costume jewelry: they are half made of copper, therefore, they are duller and will definitely oxidize over time.

How to protect yourself from counterfeiting

When purchasing, ask the seller to give you a magnifying glass to examine the sample, especially if you are not buying from a reputable company, but from hand. On Russian stamps, the lady in the kokoshnik faces to the right - sometimes a fake can be identified by this feature. If everything looks good, but doubts remain, you can use other tips:

  1. Try to attract a ring or pendant with a powerful magnet (for example, neodymium): if the product is magnetic, then the seller is a deceiver.
  2. Run a lapis pencil (sold in pharmacies) over the surface of the item: a stain will appear on the fake jewelry.
  3. Drop a drop of nitric acid onto the metal: gold will not react, other metals will take on a tint.
  4. Drop the jewelry on the table surface - a genuine jewelry should make a ringing sound, a fake one should make a dull sound.

I hope that with our help you will be able to choose jewelry made of high quality real gold for yourself. If the article was useful, subscribe to social networks and share the information with your friends!

Spool sampling system

Until 1927 in Russia, and after that in the USSR, a spool system was used to designate the sample of precious metal. The key difference between such a standard and the karat system was the designation of pure precious metal through the number 96. All other gold products containing an admixture of other metals were designated by other, lower numbers.

TrySpool systemBritish gold caratsPure gold content (%)
333328K33.33
375369K37.50
4174010K41.67
5004812K50.00
5855614K58.33
6256015K62.50
7507218K75.00
7927619K79.17
80076.819.2K80.00
8338120K83.33
8758421K87.50
9178822K91.67
9589223K95.80
990 (and above)9624K99(and higher)

Ingots

Of course, the metal comes in different forms, and the banking “format” of pure gold is the bullion. It can be produced by sheet metal, stamping or cast in one piece. The mass of the precious metal is measured in ounces or grams. There are bars that weigh 1 gram, these are used as gifts or payments on special occasions. In the bank you can buy bars of various sizes - 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 250, 500 grams. The standard bar in the banking industry is 1000 grams.

An ounce is an international standard that indicates the volume and quality of an ingot. A troy ounce contains 31.1034768 grams. This measure originated from coins that were used in the Middle Ages. The figure for one ounce may vary among different historical sources. The Jewish unit of measurement is also known - the shekel. One shekel is 11.4 grams of pure metal. Asian countries have their own measurement measures.

Where is the hallmark on the chain, earrings, pendant and gold ring?

How to find out the gold purity? According to the rules of jewelry, the sample and signs confirming the quality of the jewelry or telling the buyer where it was made should not spoil the appearance of the accessory. Therefore, most often the back side of the jewelry . For a ring, this is the back inner part of the rim; for a pendant, this is the side part on the inside or fastener. In earrings, bracelets and chains, the sample is placed on the clasp or on the ring that holds it. Gold purity testing can be carried out in the store upon request. For example, using a regular magnifying glass.

Features of the precious metal and assay system

Items made of gold have always been considered a symbol of wealth and success, because the price of the solar metal is high. Buying such jewelry allows you to once again emphasize your wealth. In addition, gold rings, earrings, and bracelets are attractive from an aesthetic point of view. In the old days, only privileged sections of society could afford such expensive items. This metal is characterized by:

  • Gold has high ductility: from 1 gram you can make a wire more than three km long. Adding various impurities makes it harder and more durable;
  • Medicine attributes healing properties to this noble metal. The body’s protective functions are stimulated, the precious metal has a beneficial effect on the cardiovascular system;
  • It has high thermal conductivity: when in contact with the skin, it takes on the temperature of the human body;
  • The bright yellow metal conducts electricity well.

When purchasing jewelry, buyers often think about what the engraved numbers on the item mean. People who are ignorant in this matter believe that the highest standard is a sign of quality. Jewelers and precious metals specialists will not give a clear answer to the question of which standard of gold is better. It all depends on what purpose the metal is used for. For example, high-grade alloys are rarely used to create jewelry, since they are subject to deformation, are fragile and quickly lose their attractive appearance.

The question of what is the best standard today worries not only connoisseurs of gold jewelry, but also those who want to invest money in precious metals. In Russia and the CIS countries, 6 markings are used: from the lowest standard of 375 to the highest standard of 999.

This is interesting! Over the entire history of human existence, about 200 thousand tons of gold have been mined.

Systems for calculating impurities in gold

Pure gold, along with alloys, has such a quality assessment criterion as fineness. This is a numerical value that will tell you the percentage of impurities.

There are several measurement systems:

  • Carats;
  • Metric system;
  • Spool valves.

Spool test is an attribute of Tsarist Russia; now it is found only in rare jewelry. The metric system is typical for the post-Soviet space, and in the West they prefer carats. Indicators in carats can range from 8 to 24, in the metric system - from 375 to 999. If we talk about compliance, we can give an example of equalizing both systems:

  • 375 sample - 9 carats;
  • 500 standard - 12 carats;
  • 585 - 14 carats;
  • 750 - 18 carats.

Of course, the numerical values ​​are not arbitrary; they are legalized by GOST, which may be different in each country.

In Russia there are hallmark values: 375, 500, 583, 585, 750, 958, 999. Gold up to 375 hallmark is not used in Russia, but in Europe there are jewelry with a lower value.

All that glitters is not gold

375 standard is an alloy containing less than 38% pure gold. The ligature consists of silver and copper. Products made from 375 standard are not subject to mechanical stress, but their shine quickly disappears. The presence of copper causes dullness. This marking is equal to nine carats. Products marked 375 are not of high artistic value, but such gold is excellent for making wedding rings, watches, cigarette cases and other accessories.

This is interesting! Around the world every 60 minutes. More steel is being cast than gold has been found in history. What other metal can boast of such rarity?

Mark on precious metals

Sample is a guarantee of quality and at the same time an indicator of the quantity of exactly how much precious metal is contained in the alloy. As a rule, jewelry and other products are not made from pure metal; impurities are added to it - other substances that change the characteristics of silver or gold.

If we talk about pure Au, then this element, despite all its positive qualities, is distinguished by its high weight, softness and tendency to scratches. For this reason, jewelry is made from ligature, diluting gold with other metals; The alloy may contain the following elements: silver, copper, nickel, platinum, etc.

The alloy takes on the characteristics not only of Au, but also of other elements. As a result, the alloy has the following properties: durable, easy to forge and melt, and oxidizes upon contact with water and air. The less gold contained in the alloy, the faster it oxidizes when in contact with water and air.

The mark indicates not only the quality of the product, but also its value. Today in the store you can find jewelry with the following markings:

  • 375;
  • 585;
  • 750;
  • 958.

In products 375, the marking indicates that the alloy contains no more than 38% Au. Such products are not highly durable, they quickly darken upon contact with water and air, and do not tolerate interaction with reagents. Jewelry with a similar mark can have a classic yellow color, as well as a red tint if the alloy contains copper.

585 is the most popular gold standard in Russia. It is noteworthy that it appeared in the USSR. But previously there was a 583 marking, which was changed to 585 when it was considered that jewelry with the same mark would be poorly valued abroad.

The alloy marked 585 contains about 59% Au; such jewelry is characterized by good resistance to environmental factors and good strength. Jewelry can have a pleasant yellow or even white tint if platinum is present in the ligature.

750 marking indicates that the ligature contains from 72 to 78% gold. This test is only used on premium jewelry; they are not accessible and can have a green, yellow, white, or even red tint. The products are resistant to environmental factors, reagents and high temperatures. They oxidize slowly and retain color and shine for a long time.

958 standard is rarely used for making jewelry. The fact is that the cost of products with such markings is very high. Jewelry is produced to order; they differ not only in price, but also in their rather heavy weight. The properties of gold do not allow the creation of openwork weaves from the alloy; for this reason, jewelry with such a mark is not distinguished by its elegance. The alloy contains at least 96% Au.

There is also a 999 standard, which is used for pure gold, which contains practically no impurities. You won’t be able to find alloy products with such markings in a boutique or store. In the old days, wedding rings were made from pure gold. In most cases, the metal marked 999 is made into ingots.

What types of precious metals are there?

Pure silver is also rarely used in the jewelry industry; the following samples are considered the most popular:

  • 875;
  • 916;
  • 925;
  • 999.

The 875 mark is placed on those products that are not of high quality. The ligature contains no more than 88% silver. Products with such a hallmark are used in medicine, and the mark is also placed on cutlery and jewelry that are not very expensive.

Jewelry made from 916 silver has good characteristics, but in order to increase the wear resistance of the products, they are often coated with enamel. The latter can also be gilding. High-end cutlery is also made from silver with this marking.

925 silver is an alloy of it and copper. The alloy contains about 7.5% copper, and the rest is silver. The ligature has good characteristics and is ideal for the production of jewelry. Metal cutlery with such a mark is rarely made.

Silver marked with three nines is considered pure and contains no impurities. This metal is practically not used in the jewelry industry; ingots are made from it.

Platinum is highly durable and is used not only for making expensive and luxurious jewelry.

The following markings are placed on platinum:

  • 585;
  • 850;
  • 900;
  • 950.

Platinum marked 585 is white gold. The composition of the alloy, in addition to two noble metals, includes impurities. Ligature is used in the jewelry industry.

Jewelry marked 850 contains various impurities; platinum is diluted with tungsten, copper and iridium. In percentage terms, the amount of platinum does not exceed 85.

Jewelry that is marked 900 is not distinguished by its bright shine and chic appearance. Among platinum lovers, products of this standard are considered budget. Finding them in the store will not be difficult.

As for 950, it is loved by jewelers because it is ideal for creating luxury jewelry. Such jewelry is encrusted with diamonds or other stones; they are not affordable.

Bankers are only interested in platinum marked 999; bars are made from this metal. Money is invested in them.

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