Since ancient times, gold has been considered a noble metal. Its enchanting shine and color, similar to the rays of the sun, were sung in legends and epics. The crowns of monarchs were cast from pure aurum, and their weight sometimes amounted to several kilograms. Noble people demonstrated their status by wearing rings, earrings, bracelets or pendants made of precious metal. Today, jewelers offer white or yellow gold as a basis for jewelry. What are their differences, and which one is more expensive, we will tell you below.
What is white and yellow gold
White and yellow are Au-based alloys and master alloys. The combination of silver and copper guarantees that the product will receive a yellow color. To change the shade of the alloy to a lighter one, jewelry manufacturers use nickel and zinc.
What is the difference
The differences between the alloys are not only in color schemes. The strength characteristics of the two metals are also different.
Composition and strength
The ligature of precious metals of different colors has its own differences.
For white gold, the following elements are used as additives:
- platinum;
- silver;
- palladium;
- zinc;
- nickel.
And although the last two metals are non-precious, their presence enhances the cold shine of jewelry.
For classic yellow gold, the alloy is smaller in the number of elements it contains. The main metals are silver and copper. Occasionally, other additives may be added to achieve a specific shade.
Precious metals 585 and 750 samples of both colors have similar strength and wear resistance parameters. However, high grades of yellow gold are more ductile and at the same time more susceptible to deformation.
Appearance and features of the brand
Jewelry made from white precious metal differs little in the nature of the shade. Only the level of gloss can vary when nickel and zinc are added to the composition.
If we talk about yellow jewelry, the range of colors is much wider and depends on the proportions of the elements included in the ligature. On sale you can find bright lemon decorations and those with a slight red tint.
When marking jewelry, its color does not matter. The amount of Au in the composition plays a role. As a result, two rings with different ligatures and 75% gold content will have the same hallmark and hallmark.
Difference between different purity grades
The percentage composition of pure Au in a precious alloy determines its fineness. However, within one sample there may be several variants of compositions regulated by GOST.
You can see them in the table below.
| Alloy color | Try | Mass fraction of component, % | |||||||
| Gold (Au) | Silver (Ag) | Platinum (Pt) | Palladium (Pd) | Nickel (Ni) | Copper (Cu) | Zinc (Zn) | Cadmium (Cd) | ||
| Yellow | 375 | 37,5 | 1,7 | – | – | – | Ost. | – | – |
| 37,5 | 9,5 | – | 3,5 | – | Ost. | – | – | ||
| 585 | 58,5 | 19,5 | – | – | – | Ost. | – | – | |
| 58,5 | 29,5 | – | – | – | Ost. | – | – | ||
| 58,5 | 7,5 | – | – | 7,7 | Ost. | 2,2 | – | ||
| 750 | 75,0 | 12,0 | – | – | – | Ost. | – | – | |
| 75,0 | 14,5 | – | – | – | Ost. | – | – | ||
| 75,0 | 7,5 | 8,5 | – | – | Ost. | – | – | ||
| 958 999 | 95,8 | 1,7 | – | – | – | Ost. | – | – | |
| 99,9 | – | – | – | – | – | – | – | ||
| White color | 585 | 58,5 | 25,0 | – | Ost. | – | – | – | – |
| 58,5 | 28,2 | – | 9,5 | – | – | Ost. | – | ||
| 58,5 | 27,5 | – | 9,5 | – | – | – | Ost. | ||
| 58,5 | – | – | – | 12,0 | Ost. | 3,6 | – | ||
| 750 | 75,0 | 14,5 | – | – | 7,0 | – | Ost. | – | |
| 75,0 | 14,5 | – | Ost. | – | – | – | – | ||
| 75,0 | 8,5 | – | 13,5 | Ost | – | – | – | ||
| 75,0 | 6,5 | – | 13,5 | Ost. | – | – | – | ||
| 75,0 | 8,5 | – | 8,0 | 3,5 | – | – | Ost. | ||
| 75,0 | – | – | – | 7,0 | Ost. | 2,1 | – | ||
Differences in GOST standards and quality
The composition and proportions of the master alloy of both alloys are regulated by GOST 30649-99 “Alloys based on precious metals for jewelry.”
It states:
- approved grades and samples of gold;
- its composition;
- alloy color.
Price and demand
The cost of yellow and white gold products varies depending on the content of the ligature and the purity. With the same amount of Au in the alloy, the price of jewelry will be the same. Exceptions include products containing platinum. Precious metal makes a product more expensive.
Every year the demand for white gold products increases. The light shade of metal looks noble and expensive. However, yellow gold still reigns supreme.
Jewelry made from it is suitable for daily wear, while white precious metal is suitable for special occasions and holidays.
What stones are suitable
White gold pairs best with the following gemstones:
- diamonds;
- sapphires;
- amethysts;
- aquamarines;
- Labradors.
Yellow gold is combined with jewelry stones, regardless of the number of carats, and looks harmonious with different shapes and color variations.
Cost of colored gold
Such a variety of jewelry in all possible colors sometimes makes the average person feel dizzy. A completely natural interest arises: which gold is more expensive: white or yellow? Or maybe blue, green, pink or black? The answer, meanwhile, lies on the surface. The price of any piece of jewelry is determined by the percentage of aurum it contains. Therefore, a 750-carat yellow metal chain will cost the same as a similar product made of pink, white or green gold.
Sometimes in the windows of jewelry stores you can find identical models of precious jewelry of different colors at different prices. Why does this happen? A logical question is usually answered by assurances from managers that the white alloy ring contains platinum, and therefore it is more expensive. In fact, this is nothing more than a publicity stunt.
If the seller cannot document the presence of another noble metal in the alloy, take his words as an attempt to artificially inflate the price.
Another way to deceive the buyer is to pass off a silver item as more expensive. Rhodium acts as the surface layer of real white gold. But it can be applied to both gold and silver jewelry. The shape of the tag will tell you what is hidden under the oxide film. In silver products it is made in the shape of a barrel, while in solar metal it is in the form of a spatula or rectangular.
Advantages and disadvantages of white and yellow gold
The main advantage of both alloys is their attractive appearance. Plasticity allows you to create unusual jewelry. However, both white and yellow gold also have disadvantages.
White gold:
- if it contains nickel, it may cause an allergic reaction;
- if the white color is achieved by rhodium plating, the coating must be periodically renewed;
- When platinum is added to the ligature, the cost of the decoration increases.
Yellow gold has one significant drawback: high-grade jewelry is fragile and easily deformed under external loads
The color of precious metals depends on the ligature
In jewelry, the term “ligature” means bringing a jewelry alloy to the required purity; during the technological process, an additional ingredient is added to the pure precious metal (Au):
- silver;
- nickel;
- copper;
- platinum;
- palladium.
The amount and composition of the impurity determines the color and strength of the finished material. A beautiful sunny shade is obtained by adding copper ( Cu ) , silver (Ag). Neutral white color is given by inclusions of platinum (Pt), nickel (Ni), palladium (Pd), silver, zinc (Zn).
Impurities of nickel and zinc enhance the cold shine of the metal
It’s easier to understand the intricacies of production using specific numbers. An example of the classic ratio of metals in 1 kg of 18k yellow gold alloy:
- Au – 750 g;
- Ag – 170 g;
- Cu – 80 g.
By changing the percentage of copper and silver impurities, the desired color is obtained. Thanks to this, jewelry lovers have a choice; they can purchase a ring, earrings, a chain with a red tint, or an equally valuable item in a classic lemon yellow color.
The white gold alloy has few shades; the level of shine of the finished item depends on the presence of impurities; 1 kg of working material contains 750 g of Au, Pd – 200 g, Ag – 50 g.
What color decoration is better to choose?
The choice of jewelry color depends on the buyer's preferences. If during fitting there is a feeling of harmony with the chosen jewelry and metal, then this is exactly what you need.
When choosing jewelry for a special occasion, you should make sure that the color of the item matches the shade of the chosen outfit. Much depends on the shape and design of the decoration.
Gold must be matched to your skin color. For example, dark-skinned people rarely wear white jewelry.
conclusions
The design of earrings, bracelet, chain or pendant should correspond to the buyer’s image, mood and taste. Usually the shade is selected to match the tone of the hair and skin: on people with dark skin, precious objects made of white precious metal can look cheap and not prestigious. There are burning brunettes who do not like yellow earrings, bracelets, rings . Many people prefer chains and necklaces made of combined gold. At the same time, a precious thing of any shade requires special, regular care. Tips on how to clean gold jewelry in the video:
Customer Reviews
Anastasia:
“I don’t wear yellow gold as a matter of principle. It’s better to buy one normal white ring than to look like a gypsy.”
Veronica:
“Among the decorations there are both colors. I wear it depending on my mood or a specific outfit. I clean everything periodically and everything is fine.”
Julia:
“I like the color of white gold, but I can’t wear it because of the nickel content in it. But I haven’t found any options without it yet.”
Advantages and disadvantages
Metals of both colors look attractive, they are flexible, and therefore suitable for creating jewelry in any style. Precious jewelry has disadvantages, the main one is allergies , which occurs during regular wearing of jewelry in people with hypersensitivity to impurities.
In Europe, jewelers are prohibited from using ligature containing nickel
Necklaces, earrings, and bracelets made of high-grade yellow precious metal rarely cause irritation; usually problems arise due to nickel, which is added to white gold. People suffering from eczema and dermatitis should study the chemical composition before purchasing.
The disadvantages of yellow gold rings and high-grade chains are fragility, deformation under load .
Selection rules
Experts advise choosing gold depending on the purpose for which it is used. Most often, the precious metal is used to make jewelry. In addition, it is becoming increasingly in demand in the microelectronics, medical, pharmaceutical and chemical industries. Principles for choosing material for jewelry:
- For everyday wear, it is better to choose jewelry made of red alloy.
- The yellow variety is considered more luxurious and expensive. Products made from it are purchased for special occasions. Such jewelry is not suitable for daily use, since the yellow mixture is too soft and easily deformed. Repairing such products will cost the owner significantly more.
- Those who decide to get a gold watch inlaid with precious stones are better off opting for the red version. Such a thing will be durable, reliable and look great on your hand.
- The yellow variety is traditionally used to make wedding rings - it has always symbolized eternal love, stability and marital fidelity.
- For making fancy ornaments and complex jewelry, white or red metal is more suitable. They are used to make decorative flowers, leaves and buds.
- Yellow-colored products are distinguished by laconic lines and a minimum of complex details. Even if you make a complex piece of jewelry from such metal, it will not have such an impressive appearance as red or white.
The buyer, based on his preferences, chooses which gold is better - white or yellow.
Quality assessment upon purchase
When purchasing jewelry, you need to pay attention to some points that indicate its quality. First of all, pay attention to its sample. It is important that the numbers on the tag and on the product itself match. Reputable jewelry manufacturers put their trademark or logo on them. This can be an indirect confirmation of high quality and authenticity.
Next, you should study the following indicators:
- Information on the tag: it should contain information about the sample, weight, chemical composition, manufacturer and cost.
- Appearance of decoration. All fastenings and soldering points must look neat and of high quality. A good product has no unevenness or visible defects.
The manufacturer is of great importance. Today, Italian-made jewelry is becoming increasingly popular. It is not worth buying products from Turkey - the composition of the ligatures in them leaves much to be desired. Very often, only the clasp with a sample is made of high-quality material, and the entire product contains a large amount of copper. With constant wear, it will quickly come to the surface.
In general, which gold is better - red, white or yellow - depends on the purpose for which the jewelry is purchased and on the financial capabilities of the buyer.
Don't polish your jewelry too often.
If your jewelry has a lot of scratches, you can get rid of them by polishing.
However, keep in mind that this process actually removes a tiny layer of material from the surface of the jewelry.
If your white gold jewelry is polished too often, all or part of its rhodium plating will also be removed and you will have to pay again to have the jewelry replated.
As a rule, jewelry should be polished by a professional and no more than a few times a year.
