Hello, dear readers! Most of us have gold jewelry at home, purchased at different times. They are marked with hallmark 585, and if they have been preserved from Soviet times, then 583. In European countries you can buy products made of yellow metal of various shades, on which it is impossible to find the hallmark we are used to.
How to determine what we have in front of us: precious metal or ordinary jewelry? Many readers are interested in: 14 carat gold – what is the purity and how to easily recalculate the units of measurement so as not to buy a fake. We learn all this from the article.
Gold is a traditionally yellow precious metal. It is impossible to make jewelry from pure metal, as it is fragile and ductile. To increase the strength of products made from precious material, alloys are produced on its basis with additives that increase strength and wear resistance. Auxiliary components are called “ligature”. The fewer additives in the alloy, the more vulnerable the product, and the more easily scratches form on it.
What is carat
The term "karat" is used in jewelry to measure the percentage of pure gold in a piece. It is necessary to distinguish between a gold carat and a diamond carat.
For abbreviated designation, the symbol “k”, “K” or the abbreviation “KR” is used. If for precious stones an increase in carat indicates a larger size and leads to an increase in price exponentially, then carats in gold have standard values: 10, 14, 18, 20, 22, a figure of 24 is rare. All products with a purity of less than 10 carats are technically are not considered gold.
Origin of the word
Initially, in different parts of the world, the reference value for determining weight was equated to the weight of cereals traditional for a given region. The word “carat” came to us from the countries of the Middle East, where jewelry has always been a sign of prosperity and wealth. There, the measure of weight was chosen to be the seed of the acacia, or carob, which had a stable size and sounded like “keration” in Greek.
This system was very approximate, and in different countries the same stone could have different prices. For this reason, in 1877, European merchants decided to consider a carat equal to 205 mg. Years later, for a simpler translation, the value was taken to be 1/5 g.
As for alloys, carat denotes the mass fraction of pure gold in it, measured in 24 parts of the total weight.
Gold in the jewelry industry
Since ancient times, noble metal has been revered by people as a material that is not subject to the influence of the external environment. To emphasize the value and importance of the metal, periods of prosperity and prosperity in history were celebrated as golden ages. And the main areas of use of the precious metal were associated primarily with the manufacture of household utensils, jewelry and coinage.
Currently, gold is used in various fields, but the jewelry industry still remains the leader in consumption.
Pure metal has one physical property: it is soft. It is this property that is used in the manufacture of threads and thin plates of gold leaf. For jewelry, ligature components are added to increase resistance to deformation and abrasion.
How to determine carat content
To determine the carat value, you need to multiply the number of grams of gold in the product (that is, its fineness) by 24 and divide by 1000. For example, 900 x 24 / 1000 = 21.6. According to the correspondence tables, sample 900 corresponds to a value of 22k, but the American system allows an error of +/- 0.5k. Therefore, the actual carat value may be less than stated.
To buy a product with a guaranteed number of carats, you need to look for the “KR” marking on it.
Buying 14K Gold: When Is It a Good Choice?
14 carat jewelry is quite affordable compared to 18 or 22 carat jewelry, which is what makes it so popular among buyers. They are also relatively stronger than cleaner, more expensive products.
If money is no object and you don't intend to wear your gold jewelry every day, you can safely buy jewelry that has high purity.
However, if you are looking for something more affordable and are concerned about durability, consider 14K jewelry.
Choose this type of jewelry if you plan to wear it frequently, especially if it is a ring or bracelet, an item that has a higher risk of damage when worn.
Also, if you have a nickel allergy and the jewelry you buy does not contain nickel, don't go below 14K (if you're really sensitive, you may have to buy an even higher purity).
How to convert to the metric system and sample correspondence table
In Russia, the metric system is used, which clearly demonstrates the amount of pure metal in grams per kilogram of alloy. The karat system means that 100% pure gold has 24 carats. Banking bars are made from pure 999 purity material, and products made from it are very soft and easily damaged. An ingot with minor scratches immediately loses part of its value.
Expert opinion
Vsevolod Kozlovsky
6 years in jewelry making. Knows everything about samples and can identify a fake in 12 seconds
To convert carats to the metric system, you need to multiply the carat marking by 1000 and divide by 24. For example, 18K x 1000 / 24 = 750. It turns out that 18 carats corresponds to the 750th standard.
Using the following sample correspondence table, you can easily convert all existing gold samples from carats to the metric system:
Metric | Carat |
999 | 24 |
958 | 23 |
900 | 22 |
750 | 18 |
583 | 14 |
585 | 14 |
500 | 12 |
375 | 9 |
Difference between white and yellow gold
Both white and yellow gold used in jewelry are alloys created by mixing pure gold with other metals to add extra hardness to the alloy.
White gold is specially mixed with metals that make the alloy appear whiter.
On the other hand, the purpose of creating a yellow gold alloy is to convey the natural color of the precious metal.
It's also worth noting that white gold is plated with rhodium, which adds shine to the jewelry and makes the alloy appear truly white, as opposed to the yellowish tone of the original mixture.
Legislative regulation
At the state level, there is strict control over enterprises working with precious metals. All released products must have a special mark confirming its quality. Even if the deviations in the declared amount of gold are insignificant, entire batches of finished products are sent for processing.
In Russia, the quality control function is performed by the Assay Office. The stamp on products made in the Russian Federation contains a three-digit designation of the sample and a female silhouette. Often the manufacturer's mark is also applied nearby.
About this sample
14K gold contains 58.5% gold and 41.5% ligature. It is thanks to additives that it becomes suitable for further processing.
Composition and properties
Depending on the metals in the alloy, gold changes not only its color, but also its properties. Copper and silver are used as alloys, in different proportions, as well as nickel, zinc, palladium, platinum, and very rarely iridium and ruthenium. Ligature metals affect the properties of gold as follows:
- Red products are durable and do not corrode. This is the most popular color.
- Silver adds ductility, makes the alloy more malleable for forging, and changes color. The more silver in the composition, the easier the processing.
- The white color is obtained due to the presence of zinc, which reduces the melting point of the metal.
- Nickel imparts magnetic properties, the alloy becomes harder and more ductile.
- Copper adds strength but reduces corrosion resistance.
- The alloy with platinum in the composition becomes more elastic, the melting point decreases.
- White gold has the lowest density, which means its mass differs to a lesser extent.
Strength
The softness of gold is the main reason it is used in alloys. The higher the carat value, the less weight and strength the alloy has. 14-karat products contain hard metals, which positively affect its strength, and therefore durability.
Alloy shade chart
Color | Gold | Silver | Copper | Nickel | Zinc |
Yellow | 585 | 187 | 228 | — | — |
Red | 585 | 82 | 333 | — | — |
Pink | 585 | 182 | 233 | — | — |
Green | 585 | 359 | 56 | — | — |
White | 585 | — | 160 | 170 | 85 |
The classic option is reddish gold, which contains 8.2% silver and 33.3% copper. This material does not bend, various products are well made from it, it was from this metal that the famous chervonets were cast.
Currently, white alloys are popular. They are used to frame diamonds and are not subject to contamination.
Brand
The manufacturer does not have the right to apply a mark on his own - this is the prerogative of the Assay Office. On domestically produced 14-karat gold, the hallmark contains 4 elements:
- a letter indicating the department that carried out the inspection (“M” - Moscow, “N” - Nizhny Novgorod, etc.);
- female profile in kokoshnik;
- directly sample 585;
- rectangular frame.
In the West, the marking looks different, and it is applied to both gold and gold-plated jewelry. The stamp contains only the characters “14k”.
Allergy to nickel.
Nickel is sometimes used in gold alloys. It is found in high concentrations in low purity alloys. Therefore, people with nickel allergies are more sensitive to 10 or 14 karat jewelry, while 18 or 22 karat nickel-containing jewelry does not cause an allergy.
Nickel-containing 18-, 20-, and 22-karat jewelry has an advantage over 14-karat jewelry made with the same metal: purer alloys contain less of it (as a percentage) and are therefore less likely to cause an allergic reaction if you are susceptible to it.
If you are allergic to nickel, 18K gold products will be preferable to 14K gold. Keep in mind that if you are too sensitive, you may need an even higher carat.
If you are prone to allergies but want to purchase 14K jewelry, look for items that do not contain nickel. Typically, such jewelry is labeled “nickel free.”
How much does 1 gram of gold of this standard cost?
Gold has long become a hard currency; it is used to carry out payment transactions and evaluate the official reserve assets of states (gold and foreign exchange reserves). To calculate the bank value, you need to multiply 0.585 by the figure established by the Central Bank, but the price in stores and pawn shops may differ significantly.
Price 999 standard according to the Central Bank | Market value of the sample today | Scrap price | Price in jewelry |
How much does 14k gold cost?
As everyone already knows, the cost of precious metals is indicated per gram. So, in Russia, 1 gram of 585-carat gold costs from 1,800 to 3,200 rubles. The price depends on the manufacturer, exchange rate, etc. Pawnshops buy gold from the population at a reduced price - approximately 900 rubles per gram.
Many people prefer to store their savings in the form of bullion, which is purchased in banks. Their value also fluctuates, so before purchasing, the price of gold should be checked with the bank.
Reasons for the popularity of 14k products
Products made from 14-karat gold are the most popular, since the ratio of metals in the alloy makes it possible to obtain high-quality and durable jewelry at an affordable price. Finished products retain their attractive appearance for many years, do not fade, and can have different shades depending on the ligature.
In addition, many believe that buying jewelry is a profitable investment, since the price of gold does not fall, but constantly tends to rise. In reality, everything is much more complicated and buying jewelry for investment purposes is a stupid idea.
Hardness and durability.
Gold is a soft metal, which is the main reason for mixing it with other metals to create jewelry. Generally, the lower the purity of the gold, the heavier the alloy.
Compared to higher karat gold jewelry, 14 karat jewelry contains more non-gold metals as a percentage of its total weight. As a result, these jewelry are harder and more durable.
18, 20 and 22 karat alloys, on the other hand, contain more gold and are therefore purer and softer. This is why such jewelry tends to scratch, wear out, bend and break faster.
For example, a 10 or 14 karat gold ring will wear out more slowly than an 18 karat gold ring, which will scratch and bend more easily. This difference must be taken into account when purchasing a product.
If you are looking for a piece of jewelry that will last, 14K gold is better in this regard.
Also, 14-karat alloy is recommended for use in jewelry for daily wear.
You can extend the life of 18-karat gold jewelry by not wearing it every day.
How to avoid becoming a victim of a scammer
When purchasing gold products abroad, it is important to look specifically at the carat marking. If you come across jewelry with karat markings for sale in Russia, then it most likely entered the country and is sold illegally. When buying such jewelry, you need to be prepared for the fact that imported gold may not reach 585 fineness.
Officially imported precious metals must undergo examination by the Assay Office, after which a standard hallmark is placed next to the original mark, protecting the buyer from deception.
To avoid becoming a victim of fraudsters, you need to carefully check the presence of a stamp and sample. It is better to choose products from trustworthy manufacturers.
How to distinguish gold from gilding
Now let's figure out how to find out whether the gold in front of them is real or not. The easiest way is to check the markings; they are usually applied:
- on the inside of the ring;
- in chains - on rings connecting the clasp to the main part;
- on earrings - on a pin that fits directly into the hole in the ear.
Previously, all stamps were applied by hand, and it was impossible to fake them. Currently, samples are applied using special equipment, and fraudsters have learned to falsify them.
The following facts should alert you:
- the recess of the stamp is clogged with dirt;
- it is impossible to read the sample number or carat marking even through a magnifying glass;
- numbers are unclear or crooked.
There is a lot of advice on the Internet about testing the authenticity of gold by applying nitric acid or aqua regia. But, firstly, it is not easy to find these reagents, and secondly, you risk ruining the decoration. Therefore, it is better to contact an experienced jeweler with this question.
There are also funny and useless ways to check, such as biting the product and checking with a magnet. These methods are unreliable and can be used by scammers.
Expert opinion
Vsevolod Kozlovsky
6 years in jewelry making. Knows everything about samples and can identify a fake in 12 seconds
A product made of real gold should be smooth, durable, and not leave dents or scratches. Gold-plated silver jewelry has a standard of 800, 830, 875, 925, 960.
Over time, the gilding wears off or darkens.
Imported gold plated jewelry is marked with the abbreviation “KGP”. Gilding in English - Gold Platted (a thin layer that will quickly be erased) or Gold Filled (a thicker layer). It is important that the marking contains only the symbols “14k” and no other designations either before or after them.
Care Tips
In order for gold jewelry to please the eye for as long as possible, you need to take care of it. You should not bathe in jewelry, wash dishes, sleep, or apply cream or cosmetics. It is better to store each accessory in separate packaging to minimize friction. Experts advise:
- Wash your jewelry regularly with warm water and detergent dissolved in it;
- do not use abrasives;
- use professional cleaning services.
These simple rules will help keep your jewelry in its original form for a long time.