What are the names of the parts of different jewelry - we understand the terminology

Have you ever, while admiring jewelry, noticed that one of them costs much more than the rest, despite the fact that they are made from the same materials? But sometimes such differences are quite significant! But you shouldn’t think that a low price is an indicator of poor quality or careless work of the craftsman. The cost of the accessory varies depending on many features and nuances regarding the material from which it is made, the technique of work, the amount of effort expended and much more. And to help you choose a product that is both high-quality, attractive and inexpensive, a classification of jewelry was developed. Its principles, provisions and laws will be discussed in this article.

Rings

The rings are so popular that it would seem that they require no introduction or description. In fact, with rings everything is not so simple. They can be of different types: classic without inserts , engagement rings , rings and signets . The design of each, even the simplest ring, includes several components. We will analyze only classic jewelry:

The shank is the key part of the product. The splint is the same band that is put on the finger.
Cast - in other words, it is a frame. Kast holds the stone tightly in his “embraces”. The most common frames are round, square, and triangular, but jewelers can shape them into a variety of shapes.
The welt or diegel is a special lining that holds the insert from below. The detail always follows the shape of the cast.
An insert is a stone that is installed in a caste. First, the jeweler selects the insert, and then makes a frame for it.
The overlay is a decorative element of the ring. It acts as a connecting unit between the frame and the shank.

The design of a traditional wedding ring is much more primitive. It usually consists of one tire, the surface of which is decorated with engraving. Rings are decorated not with castes, but with a special platform (also engraved).

Ring sizes are calculated by diameter. In Russia, manufacturers indicate them in millimeters. Other countries have their own metric systems. In order not to make a mistake with the size, it is better to study a special comparison table.

Variety of jewelry - practical classification

One of the most common ways to systematize accessories is to group them according to practical criteria. This classification method is quite widely used in the CIS countries and Europe.

When distributing accessories, craftsmen are guided by the material used in them. Thus, real jewelry includes only those that were made from noble metals - platinum, gold, silver . Such a product is decorated with any materials - from diamonds to glass - and may even have no inserts at all.

The next group is jewelry haberdashery. These are works created from non-precious alloys (aluminum, bronze, nickel) - but with silver or gold plating. They may or may not contain various decorative inserts, but in any case they will be made of non-precious substances.

And finally, the last class is metal haberdashery. This includes most items from the category of inexpensive jewelry. Both the product itself and the insert decorating it will be made of non-precious, commonly found materials - beads, leather, iron, plastic, polymer clay. However, such works are often very original and unique.

This classification is a modified version of an older system that existed before 1998. It consisted of four different classes - real jewelry, jewelry haberdashery, art and stone carvings. But due to scientific and technological progress, which entailed the invention of new materials and operating technologies, the typification was modified. Nevertheless, some masters still use it.

Earrings

The key difference between these pieces of jewelry is the types of clasps or locks. Today, the most popular among them are Italian, English, French locks, staples, loops, and special stud clasps for studs . This is by no means an exhaustive list of options. You can find other design solutions on the market. The design of an earring is usually formed by the following elements:

The earring is the movable or fixed part of the earring. In French locks, this element is inserted directly into the ear. The English castle involves a slightly different use of the part. The earring clasps the earlobe from the reverse side to secure the earring on the ear.
A pin is a part of the product that is inserted directly into the ear. The only exception is the French castle, which was already discussed above.
Insert – a stone that decorates the base.
Cast - frame. This part performs the same functions as in the ring.
The base is the surface of the decoration on which castes and inserts are installed.
The hanging part is a decorative element of the earring.

Gothic style jewelry

Jewelry in the Gothic style is almost as massive as that of the ancient Egyptians. The philosophy of the era is based on the dream of God's city on earth. Hence the majestic structures with pointed elements.

The latter became a sign of striving for heaven. The inhabitants of the Middle Ages saw the City of God as something monumental and majestic. This was reflected in the architecture, and then in clothes and jewelry. There was no place for flying fabrics and barely visible earrings and rings.

Jewelers of the Middle Ages chose black onyx from stones. Shaded with white metals, it reminded of the frailty of existence. Rings in the shape of skulls were also associated with her. Rubies were reminiscent of the blood of God. Gothic jewelry, in general, abounds in hidden and overt symbols of faith, for example, crosses.

Necklaces, chains and necklaces

We won't talk about chains Although these jewelry usually weigh more than rings and earrings, they have a fairly simple design, consisting of only two elements:

Lock with winding ring. This is the same clasp that securely connects the two ends of the chain.
Links connected to each other. They can be of eight types.

Many people believe that a necklace and a necklace are synonymous, but in fact, jewelry has a number of differences. Once placed around the neck, both products take the same shape, but their designs are different. A necklace can be called a more complex version of a regular chain, which is additionally decorated with pendants .
The design of the necklace is much more complicated. The basis of this product consists of a chain and a flexible hoop with castes inlaid with stones. The entire length of the necklace is decorated with elements of different shapes, which intertwine with each other, forming a very complex structure.

Jewelry in ancient Egyptian style

They date back to ancient times. It also includes Greek and Byzantine styles. Egyptian is the most mystified. Most of the decorations contain divine images.

These are not only creatures with the bodies of people and the heads of dogs and birds, but also their earthly incarnations. The scarab, for example, is one of the forms of the god Ra. The beetle is also present in many modern Egyptian-style jewelry.

Symbolically, jewelry means a connection with the luminary, feeding it with energy. Therefore, the use of gold or alloys of yellow tones is typical for the Egyptian direction.

Silver was used less, but it was valued on a par with gold, since it was associated with Isis. This is the goddess of fertility, and at the same time the secrets of life. So, jewelry made of Egyptian style from silver appeals to the feminine, maternal, creative principles.

Since jewelry in Egypt was dedicated to deities, thus appealing to their favor, the jewelry was made massive and bright. Must be visible from heaven. By the way, the Egyptians considered each stone in jewelry to be a conductor to the energy of one of the stars.

The favorite gems of the ancient people were lapis lazuli, carnelian, rock crystal, and garnets. They are also used to decorate modern bracelets and necklaces in order to preserve the style of the Egyptian era.

Egyptian style decoration

Pendants, pendants and medallions

The designs of pendants and pendants are practically no different. These jewelry can be called identical in everything except the way they are worn. Pendants are hung on a chain and worn only around the neck. Only one product is used! You can combine pendants to your taste, use several pieces of jewelry at once and thread them not only into chains, but also into bracelets. Both pieces of jewelry consist of five structural elements:

The hanging eye is a movable part into which the chain is threaded.
Connecting eyelet is an element connecting the base and the hanging eyelet.
The base is the surface of the product. Castes and inserts are installed on it.
Cast – frame for inserts.
Inserts – stones (precious or semi-precious).

A medallion is a special type of pendant. Its key feature is the presence of a special case in which you can store a photo of a loved one or a lock of his hair, as was done before.

All about jewelry

Why do we wear jewelry? Scientists claim that back in the Stone Age, our ancestors wore bone amulets on their bodies and clothes. The ancient Egyptians used gold, carnelian, malachite and colored glass to make a variety of jewelry for both the living and the dead. The death masks of the pharaohs are a clear confirmation of this. With the development of crafts and the beginning of the mining of precious metals and stones, jewelry became a measure of a person’s wealth, prosperity and social status. In addition, at all times they were credited with magical properties. It was believed that a ring or pendant with a certain stone or pattern could protect its owner from the evil eye, damage, disease and other troubles. Well, with the help of jewelry one could attract good luck in business, love and fidelity, and material well-being. Few could afford to purchase a ring or necklace, the more the jeweler’s art was valued. This profession was something akin to the skill of an alchemist.

Nowadays, jewelry has not lost its relevance; both women and men wear them with pleasure. But in order for the jewelry to show itself, you need to be able to wear it correctly. How to choose “your” rings and bracelets? Which stones are daytime and which are evening? Does purple gold exist? Does age affect chain length? You will find answers to these questions, as well as other interesting facts, below.

Precious metals include gold, silver and platinum group metals: rhodium, iridium, palladium, platinum. Any product made of these metals in our country is subject to stamping with a state hallmark, which is applied to the decoration in the form of an imprint. The hallmark on a piece of jewelry indicates the quantitative content of gold or other precious metal in the alloy. For example, the so common 585 gold standard means that 1 gram of a product of this standard contains only 585 milligrams of pure gold, and the rest is an alloy or alloy of silver, copper, palladium or nickel. Well, 999 standard means pure gold, without any impurities.

In Russia, the following standards are established for silver: 750, 800, 875, 916, 925 and 960 samples; for gold - 375, 500, 583, 585, 750, 958, 999; for platinum - 950; for palladium - 500 or 850.

White gold is made by mixing yellow gold and platinum, palladium or silver. Red or red gold is made by adding copper. Rose gold is also obtained from copper alloys, but in a different proportion. In addition, in the world of jewelry, there are quite exotic alloys of gold: blue (with indium additives), green (with potassium), violet (with aluminum). These non-ductile and brittle alloys are also called metallides and are used only as decoration, and not as an independent product.

All stones used in jewelry are divided into groups:

jewelry stones: Group 1: diamonds (diamonds), blue sapphires, rubies, emeralds Group 2: other sapphires, black opals, alexandrites Group 3: other opals, aquamarines, topazes, green and yellow-green garnets Group 4: citrines, chrysolites, zircons, amethysts, turquoise, moonstones
jewelry and ornamental stones: group 1: amber, malachite, lapis lazuli, jades, some garnets, rock crystal group 2: amazonites, agates, rhodonites
ornamental stones: jets, quartzites, jasper, selenites, colored marble and others.

It may also be noted that coral, pearl, amber, bone and jet are of organic origin, while all other stones are minerals.

All jewelry is divided into rings, chains, pendants, earrings, brooches, beads, bracelets and necklaces. Let's take a closer look at all these types of jewelry.

Rings

Rings are probably the most popular jewelry for women, but rings from time immemorial were intended for men. Wedding rings occupy a special place. In addition to aesthetic satisfaction, they also have a sacred meaning - they cement the union of two loving people. The variety of precious rings is great: gold and silver, platinum and with precious stones, of different designs, shapes and sizes.

By the way, determining your ring size is very easy. Take a thick string or a strip of paper 0.5 mm wide and wrap it around the finger on which you plan to wear the ring. The fit should be tight. Mark the point of contact, cut the strip or thread and measure it in millimeters. Then use the table below, which shows ring sizes for residents of Russia. If the coverage of your finger in millimeters does not correspond to the values in the table, choose the closest possible figure, adjusted upward.

As we can see from the table, in Russia the diameter of the ring in millimeters approximately corresponds to its size. In European jewelry stores, to determine the size of your ring, you only need the circumference of your finger.

When choosing a ring with a stone, you should consider the combination of colors. For example, the more colorless the diamond (namely, the quality of the stone is determined by the absence of any yellowish impurities), the lighter the metal of the ring should be. The best diamonds (whose color group is not higher than 3) are combined only with white gold or platinum. Like, for example, Cristell diamond rings starting at RUB 10,035. Well, worse diamonds will look good with yellow or red gold.

Cristell diamond ring

Blue and green stones such as emeralds and sapphires are considered daystones and can only be paired with white gold. Evening stones, that is, those that are dazzlingly beautiful under electric lighting, are better suited to yellow and red gold. These are rubies, garnets, citrines and other stones of red, yellow, orange and purple. There is an exception: pink sapphires are worn only with white metal.

As for wedding rings, experts advise you to familiarize yourself with the assortment in online stores before purchasing. Depending on your taste, you can choose not only the usual smooth yellow gold rings, but also platinum ones, decorated with intricate carvings or precious stones. You should also keep in mind that you should not go to a jewelry store to try on rings in the morning, after physical work (including sports), or in extreme heat or cold. If you have long, thin fingers, opt for a wide ring. For those with short fingers, it is better to purchase thin and elegant wedding rings.

Chains

These jewelry are very popular. You are unlikely to get by with just one chain, so the range of products offered is very wide. Thus, the cheapest gold “anchor” chain 40 cm long is offered in online stores at a price of 2,100 rubles. Well, the luxurious double chain “Nonna” with diamond cutting on two edges will cost 7,100 rubles.

"Anchor" chain, gold

Before choosing, determine the desired length of the chain that will highlight your advantages. A short chain will focus on the neck, a medium one on the décolleté, and a long chain will draw attention to the chest of its owner. The woman's age also matters. You need to be especially careful with so-called “collars”, that is, short chains in several rows, close to the base of the neck. Older women, as well as those with a double chin or excess weight should avoid such models. In addition, ladies at the age of elegance are supposed to wear more expensive and elaborate jewelry, and a thin chain with a cross will also decorate a young girl. By the way, the pendant should be combined with the thickness and type of weaving of the chain and create a single ensemble.

If you are faced with a choice: hollow or solid chain, then keep in mind that hollow chains are cheaper and weigh less. However, they are more likely to break or become deformed. Sometimes it can be difficult to repair such a product. Chains of overly complex weaving also suffer from the same problem. Repairing them can be expensive, and in particularly difficult cases, repairs can only be carried out by the manufacturer of the product.

Chain “Nonna”, gold

Pendants

A pendant is a pendant that hangs on a chain. Images of icons, crosses, letters of the alphabet, signs of the Zodiac, or simply fantasy jewelry can be used as a pendant. By the way, it is not customary to show crosses and icons to others, because in this case they are used to protect against the evil eye, damage and other troubles. Pendants are made from precious and semi-precious metals, stones, leather, glass, wood and so on. A medallion can also be worn as a pendant - a special decoration used to store memorabilia or photographs.

Gold pendant “Zodiac Signs”

Earrings

Earrings, along with rings, are one of the most ancient human jewelry. For thousands of years, jewelers have used a wide variety of metals and stones to create similar jewelry for both ladies and men. The earrings differ significantly only in one way:

requiring piercing (rings, half rings, studs, dangling earrings);
not requiring puncture (clips, magnetic clips).

Many earrings are also not jewelry and are costume jewelry made from wood, plastic, steel, glass, and so on. For example, the “Irises” earrings, priced from 250 rubles, are made of wood and covered with enamel.

Of course, there are times when jewelry is inappropriate, such as anniversaries, receptions, social events and other special occasions. In this case, you can dazzle everyone with the sparkle of Classico diamond earrings starting from 469,400 rubles, which will highlight the most luxurious evening outfit.

Classico diamond earrings

Brooches

Once upon a time, these jewelry performed a very useful function - they held clothes together. Well, in our time, their value is exclusively aesthetic, so the choice of brooches is determined mainly by fashion trends and the style of your image. The only rule for wearing brooches is that the shape of this decoration should match the outline of your handbag or shoes.

Like earrings, brooches can be made using either precious metals and stones or the most ordinary plastic or wood. You have the right to make your own choice, based only on personal preferences.

Brooch with Swarovski crystals

Beads

These women's jewelry are made from precious, semi-precious and ornamental stones. Beads vary in size and shape of the beads and usually bear the name of the stone from which they are made. For example, garnet beads can be purchased in online stores for a price starting from 125 rubles.

Garnet beads

Bracelets

This hand decoration is similar to a chain and differs from it only in length. Bracelets can be made from precious metals using stones, or from leather, wood, or plastic. In addition to the hands, sometimes bracelets are also worn on the feet. Most often - as an addition to a beach outfit or a highlight in ethnic style. One thing is important: the bracelet should suit your style and be combined with the rest of your jewelry.

There are hard and soft bracelets. Rigid hand decorations are a ring or half-ring, a bracket or a zigzag. They can be closed or have a clasp. Soft bracelets can be chain, hinged or glider.

A correctly selected bracelet can not only complement your look and make it complete, but also hide imperfections on your hands. For example, ladies with full wrists are recommended to wear solid bracelets of medium thickness. They visually make the handle thinner and more feminine. Well, it’s better to hide too thin, bony wrists under a bracelet of several rings or a chain bracelet with pendants.

Bracelet with diamonds TTF-Luxury

Necklace

A gold necklace with rubies, emeralds or diamonds is the highest level in jewelry craftsmanship, an unusually beautiful and expensive product. Such things belonged to extremely wealthy people and were passed down from generation to generation. Nowadays you can find more democratic necklaces, no matter how paradoxical it may sound. Moschino jewelry, for example, is characterized by a stylish design, made of gold-plated steel and decorated with Swarovski crystals.

Moschino necklace

Well, for those who want to start their own collection of family jewelry, we can advise you to purchase a gold necklace with blue sapphires. This is not only a true work of art, but also a reliable investment.

Brooches and bracelets

Bracelets are practically no different from chains, except for the length. Most of them also have clasps, although there are models without them. The basis of the design is made up of links, which are also called gliders. Brooches are quite complex pieces of jewelry consisting of seven elements:

Cast.
Welt.
Stone (insert).
Base.
Pin and lock.

Branding

Pick up any piece of jewelry and pay attention to the inside. Real Russian jewelry must have two imprints.

The first stamp is called the name of the factory itself that created the jewelry. The year of creation of the product is encrypted there, as well as the codes of the State Assay Supervision Inspectorate and the manufacturer. The factory puts this mark on itself.

Jewelry name

The second stamp on each product is placed by the State Assay Supervision Inspectorate. The imprint encrypts the region in which the jewelry was made, and also indicates the fineness of the metal.

Stamp of the State Assay Supervision Inspectorate

If you hold jewelry in your hands without a second stamp, it means it is a foreign product or a fake. If there is not a single print on the jewelry or the data on it is unclear, you should doubt the authenticity of the product and request the necessary documents for the product.

Tie clips and cufflinks

Cufflinks are a men's accessory that can only be used on shirts with double cuffs. The design of the product includes three parts: the top, the clasp, and the fastening elements.

And finally, the simplest, but no less elegant decoration is a tie clip . The product has a primitive design and consists only of a body and a clamp.

Oriental style jewelry

The style is timeless, connected to the geography and culture of the region. Egyptian jewelry is also oriental. The other jewels in the group are just as large. Their massiveness can be expressed in compositions of dozens of small objects.

In India, for example, they wear thin bracelets this way. But, no matter what the jewelry of the East, they are always symmetrical. Harmony is the basis of the worldview of the inhabitants of the region. They do not like disorder and believe that only symmetry can be divine.

Oriental style jewelry

Jewelry in ethno style

An even broader concept than the jewelry of the East. Ethnic jewelry includes products in national style. There may be Egyptian, Japanese, African, or Indian motifs.

Canons of beauty were created at the stage of formation of tribes. Back then they had no glass or plastic at their disposal. Ethnic style jewelry is purely natural, made from threads, feathers, shells, wood, metal and stones. Jewelers also work with leather, bones, fangs, and horsehair.

Ethnic jewelry is a material expression of the wisdom of the people and their beliefs. The Tibetans, for example, created dzi beads. These are elongated pebbles with holes in the center. Basically, they take chalcedony.

It is a type of quartz, and it is the most common mineral on earth. There is also plenty of quartz in Tibet. Images of eyes are schematically applied to dzi beads. One will give you confidence.

Two eyes promise happiness in love. Three eyes on a bead help achieve prosperity and wealth. Tibetans believe that dzi beads fell from heaven and carry their protection.

Decoration in ethno style

Types of jewelry

Costume jewelry is accessories that are made from base metals

Types of jewelry by material

Depending on the material used, there are several groups of decorations.

Elite

Created using gold or silver plating. In some cases, jewelry enamel is used. Elite options are considered an expensive pleasure. Each piece is made in a single copy. Gold-plated jewelry is in particular demand.

Jewelry

They are distinguished by impeccable quality. These can be pearl, amber or coral options. At the time of creation, an enamel coating is used. In terms of external characteristics, this variety is practically in no way inferior to its precious counterparts.

Souvenir

There is always some kind of surprise at the core. For example, a medallion on a chain.

Types of jewelry by purpose

According to the purpose of jewelry, the following types are distinguished:

Everyday . These pieces are comfortable to wear every day.
Office . Performed in a discreet style. Many consider these options classic. For example, carnations, a neat brooch or a thin chain with a pendant.
Evening . These are bright and massive specimens that always catch the eye. They go perfectly with formal and sophisticated outfits.
Wedding . Such options are impeccable. It is expressed in everything: quality, design, performance and style. This is not surprising, because all attention is focused on the bride.

Jewelry in Provence style

This style is opposed to art deco. Instead of the glitter of the big city, there is rustic comfort. Provence is a region of France where agricultural plots, vineyards, and lavender fields are concentrated.

Its purple spikelet inflorescences are the main motif in the style’s jewelry. Lavender buds are made from amethyst, charoite and other purple stones. The products emphasize the naturalness of village life, its freedom and unpretentiousness.

Instead of elaborate geometry - flowers and petals. Instead of contrasting colors, there is a play of halftones. Instead of ostentatiously luxurious materials - any kind. Even a wreath of wildflowers is a decoration in the Provence style.

The photo shows a decoration in Provence style

Gatsby style jewelry

"The Great Gatsby" is a novel by Francis Fitzgerald. It was published in 1925. The same year is the starting point for the Art Deco style. It replaced Art Nouveau and belongs to the latest era of art. It was the era of jazz and brilliance.

During the break between the two world wars, people tried to forget themselves, to escape from the realities of the world, surrounding themselves with luxury. Hence the deliberate decorativeness of art deco and Gatsby-style jewelry.

They have a lot of geometric patterns, color contrasts and expensive materials, for example, platinum, ivory, and diamonds. Among the favorites are also pearls. Its threads become infinitely long, sometimes hanging down to the floor, sometimes wrapping around the neck and wrists many times.

The Jazz Age is also famous for hair jewelry. The ladies began to cut them off, emphasizing the beauty of their faces with hoops made of the same pearls and gold. The compositions were complemented with feathers, opals and diamonds. These are the very jewels, looking at which you remember images of Hollywood divas, their luxurious, sophisticated and sophisticated life.

Gatsby style jewelry